Some beginner questions/observations

I have been keen on Flight Simulator for a while (tried an older one in the past) but I only just bought FSX about 3 weeks ago. Should have done it a long time ago!!! Anyway, I have some basic questions which I'm sure have been touched upon before but I couldn't find anything using the search:

 

1. On the Bombardier CRJ700 and Learjet, on the display, the primary display shows NAV1 but the MFD shows Nav1, map etc is there any way to get it to show Nav2, and the DME NAV2 distance too? I think there's a button but I can't find it - so flying these planes, I'm restricted to just using one NAV. I guess everyone uses GPS nowadays and it doesn't matter ???

 

2. Trim - I have real issues trimming the joystick/controls to sit in the centre and produce level flight (or a steady climb/descent). I have 2 buttons on the joystick to do it, but there's no feedback through the joystick and all I can do is try to let go and see what happens (normally the plane will pitch wildly up or down!) In real life, you'd use the stick, you'd have it in your hand and feel its force, then use the trim to reduce this force to zero. I've resorted to trying to program the autopilot briefly (not easy with a mouse whenthe other hand is holding the force of a joystick) then letting go and hoping the autopilot "catches up" quick enough by altering the trim, then once its steady, turning it off again.

 

3. If I do an IFR flight plan and ATC vector me into an airport, they're stupid, right? They have one set idea of what the way into the airport is, which has nothing to do with the real world variations for example if there's terrain, or a particular STAR, or even if a runway is normally right-hand or left-hand traffic, they just see where I am, see what gets me there and calculates vectors based on a standardised scenario. Also if there is a lot of other traffic, they'll not really space it out properly and can easily put me (say, in a 737) right behind a Cessna caravan, which I'll inevitibly catch up with, he won't get off the runway, and I'll be told to go around. Then they'll send me the wrong way, into a mountain (for example at Geneva they made me turn right, not left). I guess this is just the way it is?

 

4. I have a joystick - but a cheap one. I have to press it down to get the suckers to stick to the desk properly, and gradually they ease off. So, if I fly an approach, after about 5 minutes when it comes to a couple of hundred feet off the runway and I make a throttle adjustment, the whole thing slips a couple of inches sideways on the desk or something, putting me right off!! Would a proper yoke be better for trimming and flying with, does it make a big difference because they're quite a lot of money?

Don't feel like the "Lone Stranger" Hiyo Silver...away! My joystick doesn't even have suction cups to hold it in place! I haven't flown the CRJ-700 in a while so would have to look at the display to see if any change could be done easily to give you the NAV2/DME info.

 

The default ATC does the best it can but in any case, YOU are the pilot so don't fly into any mountains!

 

After some general messing around...is this what you are looking for?

 

My joystick hasn't got suckers either, but I don't need no steenkin suckers anyway because I've lashed it down onto a piece of hardboard with sticky tape and sit with it on my lap (below), oh gosh is my hair really that grey and straggly?

(Reminds me when I was a kid, every time I went out my mam used to say "Comb yer hair, it's sticking up on top like a bleddy cockatoo!" and even now 50 years later I can't help looking out the corner of my eye at my reflection in shop windows to see if it's still sticking up)

 

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g64/PoorOldSpike/sub2/FSX-stick_zpsasutbowr.jpg~original

 

PS- as regards trim, I use the keyboard keys for everything rather than put them on the joystick buttons. Basically hold the trim up/down key for a few seconds and the plane will respond, some quicker than others, but there's always a time delay so don't panic if nothing seems to be happening at first.

 

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g64/PoorOldSpike/sub2/FSX-stick_zpsasutbowr.jpg~original

 

 

Be careful of what you grab a hold of there!;)

Don't feel like the "Lone Stranger" Hiyo Silver...away! My joystick doesn't even have suction cups to hold it in place! I haven't flown the CRJ-700 in a while so would have to look at the display to see if any change could be done easily to give you the NAV2/DME info.

 

The default ATC does the best it can but in any case, YOU are the pilot so don't fly into any mountains!

 

After some general messing around...is this what you are looking for?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]186072[/ATTACH]

 

 

Yeah that's roughly what I'm after - ideally I want to be able to see NAV1 needle(s) locator AND glideslope; NAV2 needle (locator); ADF needle; NAV1 DME; and NAV2 all at the same time, for certain situations such as finding an airfield which might be somewhat remote (ie need the ADF too), or having the ILS glideslope indiction all ready and set up while using NAV2 or its DME to get there (for example a circle-to-land where they direct you in using another VOR/DME, to capture an ILS glideslope & locator, turn, then land - you don't want to be fiddling with radios to swap things over whilst flying manually etc).

I was just fooling around and installed the 737-800 MFD screen onto the CRJ MFD. Kind of a Mickey Mouse way to do it. I would bet there are some 3rd party CRJ-700 and Lear45 panels that would have what you are looking for.

Hi! Paul:

 

Welcome to the forum, here is a link to the repaired MFD for the Bombardier it is in our download section and addresses that issue.

 

Also I posted a photo of my daughters old set up. She went to Wal-Mart and got three $10.00 folding bar stools removed the mat and add a twenty pound bar bell weight to the bottom of the stool, then velcroed her controllers to the top.

 

FSX - FSX Panels

 

FSX Default CRJ-700 MFD Fix

 

https://www.flightsim.com/vbfs/fslib.php?do=copyright&fid=137285

 

Name: crj7mfdfix.zip

Size: 2,258,080 Date: 07-23-2009 Downloads: 2,790

FSX Default CRJ-700 MFD Fix. This revised Bombardier_CRJ_700.cab will fix the following issues with the default FSX CRJ7 Multi Function Display: true airspeed reading will be accurate, the #2 bearing pointer on the HSI will now be able to tune the ADF (also fixed the button tooltip), and the broken 'moving map' displays and their tooltips will be removed (the "HSI" and "HSI expanded" views will be available only, similar to the default B747-400). By Matt Smith.

 

Numbers Keys:

 

+ Plus Minus - keys work well as trim controls. There are several add-on trim gauges also available here at flight-sim.

 

FS2004/FSX Pitch Trim Rest

 

Name: fp_trimnul.zip

Size: 1,602 Date: 01-07-2013 Downloads: 272

 

https://www.flightsim.com/vbfs/fslib.php?do=copyright&fid=170728

 

FS2004/FSX Pitch Trim Rest. Just push "Shift+F4" to set the pitch trim in neutral position. FSX and FS2004 stand-alone XML gauge. By Pierre Fasseaux.

 

FSX - FSX Panels

 

FSX Automatic Elevator Trim Gauge

 

https://www.flightsim.com/vbfs/fslib.php?do=copyright&fid=169294

 

Name: fsxatrim.zip

Size: 4,097 Date: 10-31-2012 Downloads: 483

 

FSX Automatic Elevator Trim Gauge. It simply causes the stick/yoke to move the elevator trim at the same time it moves the elevator. It does not appear on the panel (making it easy to place) but any trim indicator on the panel will show that it's working. Also works with Prepar3D and FS2004. By Chuck Dome. Public Domain.

 

Photo of her set up.

 

 

Respectfully:

 

David....

YouTube Channel "David Robles FSX"

Hi. In North America should be easy to buy a Joystick with 8 or 10 buttons, from Value Village, for exemple for 3 or 4 dollars (I've bought a few...). Trim is usually the only correction I do when landing, coupled with thrust (and only thrust when on ILS). Maybe you have the 'repeat" set on "settings" and over correct your attitude. As for ATC, don't remember having problems on final except for the odd "go around". If you want to chat about this, feel free to e-mail rogerb2004@ymail.com and maybe we can do a flight together one of these days. Roger

The joystick that Scatterbrainkid has is a variation on mine. I have the Thrustmaster HOTAS X, which has an additional throttle, and I have the joystick itself on my desk to the right of my keyboard when I'm flying and the throttle to the left. The throttle has a rudder bar on the front, so I don't have the need for pedals. And there are trim buttons already mapped on the joystick, plus buttons for flaps and landing gear on the throttle.

 

This joystick/throttle combo works fine, I'm happy with it, and I got it in a store locally for EUR 49. I had one before, when I lived in the States, which I believe I paid USD 45 for. This is also available on Amazon.

 

And no irritating suction cups!

 

Jorgen

Good advice, thanks. I think I'll look around long-term for a better joystick. I bought the cheapest force feedback one from PC World for £30 (I am based in the UK) as I thought it would be alright to get going and didn't want to spend too much. I have seen that yokes tend to be £100+. Rudder pedals another £££ or so too. And I'm left handed too so whether doing the joystick with right hand and throttle with left, is the best way for me, I don't know?

 

I'd be interested to hear others' views on a recommended (but not too costly) joystick, or whether a yoke can be better - I read somewhere that they'd be much better, but your advice says this isn't so. Maybe its down to the particular yoke or you had a bad example?

Different yokes or joysticks for different folks. I think it's all about how close you want your simulation to RW be.

 

Flying RW choppers though I'm left handed, I used the collective with my left hand and cyclic with my right. And by the way in a chopper the Pilot In Command sits in the right seat. That's how the plane is made.

 

Flying a Lear or other similar fixed wings I use the yoke with my left hand and the throttle etc. with my right. And as PIC, I sit in the left seat. That's how the plane is made.

 

However jet jockeys and others will quickly point out that in many occasions, the joystick is for the right hand and the throttle is on left & often the PIC seat is in the center of the plane. That's how the plane is made.

 

No one says it's a must, but I prefer to sim as accurately as possible. So I change setup/s and control locations depending on what plane I'm flying at the time.

 

IMHO regardless of what else you decide to do, BUY THE PEDALS! They are always in the same spot.

FF sticks are neat, some ways. I bought a Logitech Wingman a few years back and discovered that, when it's working right it's great, but all too often it wasn't right and nearly locked up, apparently due to some wrong input from the sim (or maybe a software defect), for a little before returning to a useful operation. That intermittent operation made it impossible for me to enjoy, or to fly well.

 

Perhaps others haven't had such problems, but it drove me away.

 

Now I use a Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS, and it's great although there is, of course, no FF. It uses Hall effect sensors, rather than pots, for the axes, with greater resolution than most pots. And both the stick part and the throttle part are very heavy and have rubber pads (not suction cups) on the bottom to minimize sliding.

 

For the OP: As for trim, I trim a bit at a time with my two way button, slightly relaxing the stick pressure to see if I'm trimmed yet, then apply more, if needed. It's slightly more involved than doing it in a real aircraft, but it soon became an automatic response for me, such that I no longer have to think about it -- just do it.

 

When I used to have the Saitek X-36, there was a rotary axis on the throttle that fell under my left thumb, and it made trimming even simpler than it is now, but the Warthog doesn't have that.

 

BTW, I agree with lesh that yokes reduce your precision quite a bit. Also, the buttons/switches and eaxes on my Warthog (and on the X-36, for that matter) mean I can assign operations such that most flying is, just as in the HOTAS name, Hands On Throttle And Stick. So I rarely use the keyboard while flying.

Paul,

 

''2. Trim - I have real issues trimming the joystick/controls''

You wouldn't be struggling if you had one of these. You QUICKLY TAP 10 times (aprox) for 1.00 of trim. Or hold key pressed for 3 seconds for 1.0 of trim. It would help if your panel had a digital (numbers) to SEE the pitch trim.

 

''4. I have a joystick - but a cheap one''

Get one of these. $25 at Amazon. Used, but if it don't work you can return it. And then get the $99 joy that don't work (ha).

 

 

And as far as PERMANENT placement of joystick for 'best fly'. With this 'NARLY' tactic your keyboard keys will always be within reach at all times and you won't be having to 'reach' around joy to press a key. Use my head (hehe).

 

These pictures ('Worth A Thousand Words') were posted in forum in the past. Just copied over to put together. Hint: At LEAST try this set up for a week or so. It's Cheap so you can revert to your 'own way of doing things' if you want. Me? I don't like to struggle.

"2. Trim - I have real issues trimming the joystick/controls to sit in the centre and produce level flight (or a steady climb/descent)."

 

Just so you know, if I understand you correctly, you are expecting the aircraft to fly level when the trim indication on the gauge is centered. No real aircraft behaves this way.

 

If you have detailed documentation or have access to the real plane specifications, you should be able to find specified trim settings for various speeds, flaps and weights.

In short, the trim indication you use is the one that WORKS! (level flight or least required stick pressure) regardless of what you see on the gauge.

Most aircraft (with some notable exceptions like the 727) take off with null trim, but you will not keep that trim setting for very long.

 

-Pv-

Welcome.

I have a Logitech Extreme 3D Pro joystick and it's quite heavy so don't have any problems of it moving during use. It has 6 programmable buttons on the base, a 'hat' switch, trigger and 5 other buttons on the top of the 'stick' and a throttle lever. You should be able to pick one up for around $US45-50. Very comfortable too.

You could try velcro as one member suggested and you could also try using a little water on each suction cap and place it on a very flat, smooth airtight surface.

Another thought would be to try Blu-Tack on the base.

"2. Trim - I have real issues trimming the joystick/controls to sit in the centre and produce level flight (or a steady climb/descent)."

 

Just so you know, if I understand you correctly, you are expecting the aircraft to fly level when the trim indication on the gauge is centered. No real aircraft behaves this way.

 

If you have detailed documentation or have access to the real plane specifications, you should be able to find specified trim settings for various speeds, flaps and weights.

In short, the trim indication you use is the one that WORKS! (level flight or least required stick pressure) regardless of what you see on the gauge.

Most aircraft (with some notable exceptions like the 727) take off with null trim, but you will not keep that trim setting for very long.

 

-Pv-

 

While I am in general a fan of Paul's advice, this particular nugget is completely wrong. Trim in FSX doesn't act anything like the real world. Nothing At All. Paul is talking about the real world not the sim.

 

The key to understanding trim in the sim is that it is a supplemental control surface, acting independently of the controller. Almost ALL controlers use spring-centring, which further confuses the issue.

 

If you would like a trim lesson it's very simple to do it:

Use the default 172. Set up a level flight, constant power. trim until you aren't holding any spring forces and the joystick is centred. That's trim...

Now change the power, change the pitch attitude, change the speed.

For each you will need to adjust trim to avoid having to hold onto the spring pressure - effectively returning the stick to centre.

 

The only difference with a force feedback stick is the `pressure` you feel which changes while you change trim. FS Force actually motors the stick as trim is applied.

 

Finally, trim in the sim is not a simple key press but a range of keypresses: a simple tap, tap, tap will make small alterations. Press and HOLD will allow the sim to change its response curve - the longer you HOLD, the faster the trim moves.

 

Master the difference and that's trim taken care of - it works ubiquitously across all types of aircraft, large or small, glider, prop or jet.

 

Just not helicopters, but those are infernal devil machines and the spawn of satan anyway...

Me, I learned to fly with a stick, center of the plane. No throttles in a glider, but later...

Due to that, I formed the firm opinion that planes were meant to be flown with a STICK, not a steering wheel. Those are for cars. Period.

And, due to the controls placements, the stick was meant to be held in the right hand.

 

And so mote it be, forever and ever. Amen.

 

But hey, just my opinion, and we all know about those :D

Pat☺

..I'd be interested to hear others' views on a recommended (but not too costly) joystick, or whether a yoke can be better..

 

I bought myself this new baby below a few weeks ago for 30 GB pounds (45 US dollars) from my local Plymouth UK computer shop and it works fine, it's got a twist grip for rudder and a hat for panning the view. There are about 10 buttons on it but I never use 'em because I prefer hitting keyboard keys instead.

I keep meaning to buy a yoke so I can switch between yoke and joystick depending whether the FSX plane I'm flying has a yoke or stick in the real world..:)

 

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g64/PoorOldSpike/sub2/thrust_master_stick_zps8oimplce.jpg~original

 

PS- I'm righthanded but as you're lefthanded, google 'left hand joysticks' and a bunch of hits should come up..:)

'left hand joysticks'

 

Is that anything like the left-handed crescent wrench??

:pilot: :cool:

Pat☺

Is that anything like the left-handed crescent wrench?

 

Yes, and Billy the Kid had to shop around too to find a gun that suited him-

 

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g64/PoorOldSpike/lefthanded-gun_zps1vbaqb9b.jpg~original

Yes, and Billy the Kid had to shop around too to find a gun that suited him-

 

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g64/PoorOldSpike/lefthanded-gun_zps1vbaqb9b.jpg~original

 

 

Misconceived notion from the old picture that was shown backwards with him holding the rifle in his left hand.

Nothing wrong with southpaws.

Most of the tribe of Benjamin were left handed (so I read anyway).

One of my best friends was known as leftie.

I got nothing agin the lefties. Heck, my momma is a leftie.

Only real thing was, it made her write with her hand upsidedown, it looked like. Still had better handwriting than I ever will.

Pat☺

Well, if Paul Newman fired that revolver as he holds it, the recoil would throw the muzzle off to the left before the bullet even left the muzzle, making him miss, and the recoil would throw his hand back into his stomach, causing him to go OOOmmmph....

 

Jorgen

Here's a picture of my setup. I should say then when I fly, I move the joystick and throttle to the edge of the desk, in line with the keyboard. Note the buttons on the right-hand side of the throttle, from the top for flaps down incrementally, next for flaps up incrementally, third for dropping objects and bottom for landing gear.

 

Jorgen

 

(Damn... the image did not attach....)