Mark Hurst

Good grief, I think you need to decide what it is you're arguing and then stick to it!

What's your reasoning? The important caveat with turbo speed is it clocks up under load, but only one core. If it stays under load, it stays clocked up. That sounds like a good fit for FSX.

The picture isn't really helping. Guessing again, you are trying to land in a crosswind and have noticed that the wind blows you sideways. This shouldn't be surprising. You have to point your nose slightly into wind to compensate, which means you will be flying a bit sideways as you approach the runway.

Perhaps you are describing adverse yaw, which I have been unsuccessful in modifying. If this is indeed your issue, you could look at this thread for all the things people suggested.

You're asking in an FSX forum, so don't expect an unbiased answer! But no, obviously. There are two main contenders these days, Prepar3D v4 and X-Plane 11. One of these is an evolution of FSX but has had years of extra development by Lockheed Martin. Each has its pros and cons, so it's hard to make an empirical comparison without knowing what's important to you. I predict you will now see a long conversation with endless quibbling about what 'best/most realistic' means ;)

That doesn't seem to be so. I only really have experience with two turboprops, the Twin Otter and the Turbine Toucan, but in each case it's the power lever that does all the work. But yes, at the end of the day you need a controller that matches what you're trying to do, otherwise it's all down to what bodges you can figure out.

Not sure why this should be different between jets and turboprops but I don't fly jets, so maybe it is. Regardless, just map a key or a button to the 'throttle cut' command and that should be a workaround.

Unfortunately that is no more, totalled on takeoff about a week ago :( The nearest equivalent for FSX would be the FSD Turbine Toucan, which is just ridiculous. I would also recommend the OctopusG Wilga, sold by Aerosoft.

You could try searching for "fsx vc rain fix" and applying that. I'm pretty sure this has fixed blank windows for me in the past, rain or not.

I think the Transparency AA setting is the relevant one, not AA.

I doubt such a thing exists for FSX but I can't imagine why you would want it unless you are intending to create a 'proper' airliner cockpit. Just use a rotary encoder as I described, it shold work fine. If you need to tweak the rate you can use a Lua script if you have FSUIPC.

Are you using the autopilot at all? Most autopilots will adjust elevator trim, which is a problem when you switch the A/P off unless you have a motorised trim wheel (which you don't :) ). The only real fix is not to use an absolute-position elevator trim control. Hence the paddles on your Eclipse won't be much use either. But yes, you can map one of the rotary wheels on a CH Eclipse to up and down elevator controls. They just work like pairs of buttons. You can also hack the Saitek trim wheel to work as rotary encoder (it actually is one inside) but you have to be prepared to take it apart and solder a couple of wires onto it.

You have discovered that the 'sensitivity' slider doesn't actually adjust sensitivity! The only way you can do that is to use something that lets you change the response curve for the yoke axes. FSUIPC can do that and I think SPAD.neXt may be able to do it too. The sensitivity slide is better named as 'delay before responding to any movement'. At zero, there is no delay. At max setting, there is a very big delay. If you want to know about this in detail, from about 3:27 onwards.

Ths is unlikely to be mechanical. There is a well-known calibration bug with this yoke that you can temporarily fix by wiping out some registry entries. Look here for the fix.

There must also be an outside chance Microsoft will start selling a boxed edition again, although boxed anything is going out of fashion. Seems Microsoft has taken back support for FSX and that there will be 'next steps'... Not much use for the OP's snapped disc, but it would be an alternative for the Steam-o-phobes!

Try pressing ALT+ENTER twice in succession, which will switch you into and out of full-screen mode.

I assume you are in windowed mode, in which case you need to right-click on the window and select 'undock'. Alternatively, switch to full-screen mode and it will work as expected.

I don't think I am up to date with current systems or budgets. Most modern nvidia GPUs since (600 series) will support three-screen displays natively so that shouldn't be a problem. Other than that I'd suggest looking for something with the fastest CPU you can get. Mine is an i7 7700K,which runs at 4.2GHz native but can be overclocked if you know what you're doing (I don't, so I settle for letting the BIOS run a 5% auto-overclock). I previously had a factory-overclocked i5, which ran at 4.6GHz (which is now my desktop PC!) This was pretty good but the overclock wasn't as solid as it should have been and I got tired of it blue-screening too frequently. As for my setup, the PC is still the weak link. I wish I had something that would run smoothly. I just tried adding REX Sky Force 3D and I don't think it's going to cope with that :( It's marginal in weather even with regular clouds.

Connection type (DVI, HDMI, VGA) can be mixed. The monitors don't need to be identical or even the same resolution if you are going to run separate windows (although further comment on that below). If you want to run a single spanned view you will need an appropriate GPU (yours isn't) and the monitors will need to run at the same resolution. They don't need to be identical but you will have a better chance of colour matching if they are. (Okay, so I now see you are planning to buy a new PC. That makes the following paragraph more or less redundant but it's still information.) Looking at your (current) CPU, you will struggle to run three monitors well. Forget 30fps, you will be lucky to consistently get 20 over scenery and without weather, unless perhaps you stick with default scenery. I ran a Core2Duo E8600 overclocked to 4GHz for years with a lower-res three-screen display and it was borderline at best. You can see lots of videos made on that setup on my YT channel (check the 'About' to see when I upgraded). And even then I was running a spanned view with TH2Go (originally) and later nvidia Surround. Performance is significantly better with a spanned view. You will most likely get poor performance with separate 3D views in FSX. My advice would be to run a single larger 1080p display (up to 32" is good) with a TrackIR and forget multi-screen unless you can significantly upgrade your hardware. I currently run three 1080p screens with an i7 7700 and that tends towards marginal even with P3D v4 and a view group to manage the three windows.

It would be instructive if you said why you think this :|

The sensitivity and null zone sliders don't have the effect you describe. In fact having your sensitivity slider almost fully left will gave you a massive lag in the control response and is probably hiding what your rudder is actually doing. I'd suggest setting it all the way right first, see how the rudder behaves and then adjust it left a bit if you want to introduce some inertia. This sounds more like your rudder axis isn't calibrated properly. Of course I am assuming you have an analogue axis for your rudder. Does it move smoothly in the Windows game controller settings dialog?

Point a camera at the screen.

If you are watching this from spot view you are most likely just describing the way FSX spot view works. Try watching it from the cockpit or tower view. And I presume you are performing an aileron roll, not a barrel roll. You would expect the nose to drop if you're just applying aileron without flying the manouevre conscientiously.

You need to make sure the plugin is running. Try starting it manually, then make sure you add an entry to exe.xml and that it doesn't have 'disabled=true' next to it.

You need to move it back, which you do by adjusting the 'chase distance'. The default mappings for this are CTRL- and CTRL=. It is helpful to have these functions mapped to a pair of buttons on your joystick. (If you want to see the difference between zoom and chase distance, check out , from 2:48.)