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Brushstrokes

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No beeps and a blank monitor could mean a failed graphics card - if your mainboard has built-in graphics, you could remove your graphics card and try using the built-in graphics as a test, or swap-out your graphics card for a spare that you know is working.

If your graphics card has it's own power supply from the PSU, this could have failed/shorted out internally, (PSU's can do this kind of thing without warning) so this could be worth checking with your voltmeter too.

Tim Wright "The older I get, the better I was..."

Xbox Series X, Asus Prime H510M-K, Intel Core i5-11400F 4.40GHz, 16Gb DDR4 3200, 2TB WD Black NVME SSD, 1TB Samsung SATA SSD

NVidia RTX3060 Ti 8Gb, Logitech Flight Yoke System, CH Pro Pedals, Acer K272HL 27", Windows 11 Home x64

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Measuring any battery with an ordinary voltmeter tells you nothing, it is just showing static voltage. A battery tester reads the voltage across a resistive load so the battery is actually having to deliver current. So read your CMOS battery while it's on the board (with the computer unplugged, of course) where it will be loaded.
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  • 2 weeks later...
That's it. I'm done. New battery, swapped power supply, removed vid card, nothing changed. Disappointed that I spent over a year researching this computer, conferring with others on here with vastly more knowledge that I have, taking my time, investing in what I thought was a reliable machine. I should have known something would go wrong when I received it and found both hd's were not even plugged in! I suppose I'l shop around for something off the shelf this time and save some money. Thanks again everyone for the response and the help.
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First off, sorry you have to replace your old rig. Sometimes that just happens. :(

 

I tend to wear my systems out, but I've had lots of experience working on machines that just flat-out failed. Sometimes its due to the parts, many times its due to stuff you can't control (power spikes, brown outs, thunder storms, the electric company installing new meters, etc., etc., etc..).

 

If its any help, when I last replaced my desktop machine I started out with a rough plan of what I wanted to do but I stayed flexible in terms of what I'd wind up with.

 

I started with a "bare bones" value-priced I3 CPU in a "starter" type of desktop. The CPU was a lot better than I thought it would be (humming along at a nice 3.2 GHz). The plan was to see where the bottle necks were in terms of performance while I learned to use Win10 (64 bit).

 

Then, I could add a GPU/Vid card based on what I would need and some extra RAM later on, down the road. But, not until I was SURE I knew what I needed vs what I wanted.

 

BTW, I need to point out that I still like running FS2002 and I didn't plan on updating that or any of the older games I enjoy, so being able to run older games was important.

 

The first big surprise was that I really didn't need a GPU. The on-board graphics didn't have many options but after I loaded FS I made it a point to run it while also running the Win10 resource tests (CPU, RAM, and HD loads) and I noticed my new system wasn't maxing-out much of anything. :eek: A fast (stock) CPU can hide a multitude of problems. :pilot:

 

I eventually dropped a GPU/vid card in the box, but only because it gave it me better display options. I even opted for an el-cheapo ($40) card because it didn't need a cooling fan. :D

 

That was basically it. The next time I open the case on this machine will be to replace the battery and dust off the parts.

 

So, I guess the moral of my story is this:

 

Figure out what you need vs what you want before you start shopping. An older I3 CPU may even be all you need ( I'm guessing you should aim for an I5 CPU with a 64 bit operating system) but defiantly do the leg work to figure out what you should be shopping for.

 

Buy something you'll be comfortable owning. This includes WHERE you buy it. If you aren't comfortable doing periodic maint, buy your next system at a place you trust in terms of them providing the service. You may also want to tell the sales folks what you expect in terms of a new system (what you'll be using it for, the kind of games and programs you want to run, how long you expect it to run without doing upgrades, etc.) and how much (relatively) you're expecting to pay for it. Let them figure out what you need to fit your budget and expectations. Its what they get paid to do and its to their benefit to see you walk away happy.

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Slightly off topic but here is a Monday smile...

 

Beginning of January, I switched on my 5 year old i5 4GB Ram simming laptop to be greeted with 2x beeps & a blank screen.

I took it to the vendor's service department & was told that yes, it does have a separate graphics card, but, due to it's age, that, & the mother board needs to be replaced, due to heat cycling that has caused the card not to seat properly.

 

Then I was told that there are no spares available, due to it's age..

& here comes the 'BUT

the service controller then said that it I clip off the back, & point a warm hair dryer to the graphics card area for a few seconds, it should work.

 

So, I now carry a hair drier around with me to start up my laptop.. It's a 50/50 chance that it start normally, but I do tend to get odd looks at work & at my virtual flying club when I haul out the hair drier.

:-)

Robin

Cape Town, South Africa

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It's not how good you fly, daaahhhhlink, it's how good you LOOK.

And daahhlink, joo look MAHvellous! :p :cool:

 

If it's a seating problem, did they consider pulling the video card out, cleaning the contacts with a pencil eraser (great tool for cleaning card contacts!), and reseating it a few times? May make the thing work right again. Maybe even without the hair dryer! :D

Old radar trick we used to use. A lot of intermittant electronics problems can be solved that way. I know, I did it for a lot of years.

 

Anywho, have fun all!

Pat☺

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Had a thought...then there was the smell of something burning, and sparks, and then a big fire, and then the lights went out! I guess I better not do that again!

Sgt, USMC, 10 years proud service, Inactive reserve now :D

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to check if the mainboard is ok is simple.

Disconnect everything from the mainboard that is not essential for booing.

all harddisks,

the dvd drive cable

all usb cables

all addon cards, including the graphics card,

all Ram, except leave 1 stick in slot 1

leave the processor, cooler, the fans, connected.

reset the Bios with the jumper.

Reconnect the power supply, and wait 30 seconds.

Presss the start button.

Wait for the beep.

 

No beep?

Pull the last stick of ram, and replace it with on you pulled out earlier.

Try again.

Still no beep? Then it's either the mainboard, or the processor, that is damaged. Or the mainboard is shorting to the case.

 

o test for a short, you would have to take it out of the case, and lay the mainboard, cpu, cooler, and Power Supply, on the desk on a cardboard box For isolation. Then try again. To start it will be a bit tricky, you could do that by shorting the pins to the start button. Read more online on how exactly. That's a bit tricky.

If you go that route, take pictures of how the front pane connects to the manboard. It's often a set of little wires with separate connectors. These can be connected the wrong way round by accident, which is not a good thing if it happens. SO make sre you make clear pictures with a digital camera. Better take a few pictures to many.

 

 

Let's assume for now no short test is needed.

Beep?

Connect the other stuf, one thing at a time, and test after each one.

Could be it then suddenly all works, in that case it was just a faulty cable connection.

Could be after connecting a certain device it does no longer boot. That's the faulty one then.

 

When connecting the videocard, try one display at first.

If that works, connect the other one later.

 

Many reboots to do. That's how it goes when testing systematically.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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It's not how good you fly, daaahhhhlink, it's how good you LOOK.

And daahhlink, joo look MAHvellous! :p :cool:

 

If it's a seating problem, did they consider pulling the video card out, cleaning the contacts with a pencil eraser (great tool for cleaning card contacts!), and reseating it a few times? May make the thing work right again. Maybe even without the hair dryer! :D

Old radar trick we used to use.

Pat☺

 

He he he, I was a tech on BPS-14 (old school) and BPS-15 systems along with a bunch of other stuff. :cool: My ring time is bigger than yours. :p

 

The pencil eraser trick works fine, I'd just fine tune it a bit to try to use an older style typewriter eraser (gray, gritty eraser part) and some alcohol pads or a soaked Q-Tip before and after.

 

With a desktop/laptop, you really shouldn't have to clean the contacts unless the working environment is groady. Just doing a card re-seat should be enough to clean the contacts.

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Keep it basic at first. :)

 

-How does a multi-core CPU help what you want to run?

Can you exploit those extra cores and threads or is the core clock speed more important?

You want to consider this for all the software and tasks you enjoy. It guides you to what kind of system you'll be buying.

 

-What other hardware are you planning to connect to it?

You've mentioned that you ran multiple monitors, how sold are you on staying with the same layout? Multiple monitors can add higher costs and demands to your new system.

In my case, I'm over 50 and (thankfully) my multi tasking days are over. :D My old eyes could care less if I'm looking at 4K video but we're all different. My point being, video tends to put the higher demands on an over-all system. If running dual monitors ever felt gimmicky or like a pain in backside, consider parking one of them in the closet as a spare or maybe sell one and use that money on your new system.

 

Speaking of your old hardware, try to re-use as much as you can. Take note on what your old gear uses to connect to the PC, now. When you're looking at that new box, take note of what kinds of connectors it has on the back and on the front. Are there enough connectors? Will your old gear plug into it? A little planning now can save you from headaches when you bring the new box home.

BTW, one quick tip. Make sure to ask how many hard drive connectors there are on the mother board. My golden rule is that the MB should have one more connector than I'm planning to use. :) For example, if you're only planning to run one hard drive, you want two SATA connectors. One hard drive and an SSD, three connectors, etc.

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There is nothing like a 'local PC' store to get advice and maybe even a PC. After all, for FS9 all you need is a Pentium. No liquid cooling. No 'issues'. If you have a PC that is acting up these shops provide diagnostics at little ($10) or even no cost. Use my head.

 

301 Computers LLC  

Computer store in Waldorf, Maryland

Located in: Acton Square Shopping Center

Address: Acton Square Shopping Center, 2724 Crain Hwy, Waldorf, MD 20601

Phone: (301) 638-0240

Hours: 8AM–6PM

 

REVIEWS:

Elizabeth Madlener 4 months ago

I can't think of better people to help with computer problems. They are very responsive, insightful, and--most important--patient when needing to respond to a techno-peasant like me! Thanks for your ready assistance!

 

Ricardo Cardoza Ricardo Cardoza

3 months ago

Absolutely spectacular service. So glad I came here before going to geek squad and get charged 100 just for a diagnostic

 

Albert Harvey 3 years ago

I have had very good experiences with 301 Computers. They are honest and reliable. They have a policy of giving free diagnostic evaluation and cost estimates, so you can get the work done there or elsewhere. When there is a simple ...More

i7 2600K @ 3.4 Ghz (Turbo-Boost to 3.877 Ghz), Asus P8H67 Pro, Super Talent 8 Gb DDR3/1333 Dual Channel, XFX Radeon R7-360B 2Gb DDR5, Corsair 650 W PSU, Dell 23 in (2048x1152), Windows7 Pro 64 bit, MS Sidewinder Precision 2 Joy, Logitech K-360 wireless KB & Mouse, Targus PAUK10U USB Keypad for Throttle (F1 to F4)/Spoiler/Tailhook/Wing Fold/Pitch Trim/Parking Brake/Snap to 2D Panel/View Change. Installed on 250 Gb (D:). FS9 and FSX Acceleration (locked at 30 FPS).
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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't trust any PC store, the usual patter is, "Bring it in and we will have a look," then next time you go they say the such and such needs replacing or more.

You pay, get new such ans such and the problem still persists, so you contact them again and they say you are best with a new PC, we have one here that will suit you.

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UPDATE: bought a used custom for a very reasonable price from ebay with AMD FX 4360,4.2 GHZ, win7 64bit, 600 watt ps, 4gb Kingston DDR, NVIDIA GT610

All with the intentions of using my existing hardware. Only thing is, it, so far runs great as is. Still loading and copying files.

Processor does seem to run warm though, need to work on that.

Certainly do thank everyone for the advise and opions!

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Nice one Jack,

Glad you are getting sorted again, it seems a daunting task to start over again, I've done it as a lot of others have but take your time and you may also find there were some things you had installed before you no longer use or need.

 

As for the processor running warm is the fan running or are the veins clogged, if not a new cooling fan/system isn't that expensive?

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Yes, it is quite a task reloading everything. Good time to clean out! MISTAKE, not my processor running hot, the GPU runs about 70c at idle and about 90c under loads. Seems too hot to me. I blew everything out, checked fans, ect. Ill keep an eye on it.
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Check online for your vid card temperatures. I once had a GeForce that idled over 60C and would hit over 90C when pushed, and GeForce said that was normal ...even though I could easily feel a hotspot on the case near it. (I mounted an auxiliary fan anyway, just for piece of mind. And that card is still in use in an old XP system.)
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the GPU runs about 70c at idle.

 

I have an i5-3470 with a GT640 video card. While reading this post the GPU temp is 48 degrees. Not sure what it does when it's given some work, but your 70 at idle appears high.

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