How to fix an inoperative or chattery Saitek Throttle Quadrant.

My Saitek throttle quadrants have been languishing unloved under my PC bench gathering dust for two years.

Not to mention being about 10 years old now I would guess.

They both had an issue where they would `chatter` with the FSX throttle juddering with any small movement of the controller.

Sometimes an inch of movement would cause the throttle to go from idle to full power remdering the controller useless.

Note. At this point I did the usual things. Recalibrated. Tweaked FSX settings. Reinstalled the drivers. Wiggled them about a lot. Nothing fixed the issue.

Some Googling suggested this was due to the `pots` being dirty and needing cleaning.

So I decided to strip them apart :hide: and have a go at fixing them.

You will need some screwdrivers. A torch preferably one you can wear or stick in your mouth :lol:.

Some cotton buds and alcohol. I used IPA from Maplins which I use for model making.

1) First remove the G-Clamp from the controller by removing the four screws at the base. This reveals the base.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/munnst/saitek%20controller/DSCF0002_zpslz5guz8j.jpg

2) Remove the four screws in the base (use the torch to locate as there are more holes than screws). Two small and two long. The base simply pulls off.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/munnst/saitek%20controller/DSCF0003_zps5046v6mr.jpg

Note the position of the cable. I ended up with the cable around the bottom on re-assembly. Not a disaster but requires some fettling to sit nicely.

3) Remove the three or four (seems my second controller had a factory mod with one screw missing) black screws from the circuit board. Push the buttons and the board pops out.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/munnst/saitek%20controller/DSCF0005_zpsuxz7u9ad.jpg

4) Now, using a long screwdriver remove the six screws holding the three controllers in place. Also remove the small grub screw underneath the controller holding the cable guard in place. I left the guard in situ (but with the screw removed otherwise the stalks wont come out) while I pulled out the controllers. The guard then comes free.

(image removed as I am over my 10 pic limit. To be hinest this pic was not very informative :-) )

5) The controllers will not come all the way out. There is a small plastic bump on each stalk that you have to use brute force and push past the housing. It makes a horrid crack but seems to do no harm. It does mess with your OCD if you like nice fitting things though. :lol:

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/munnst/saitek%20controller/DSCF0006_zpsdweadjxs.jpg

6) With the unit dissasembled make sure the stalks are in the max, full power positions (that's at the top). This will ensure the pots go back in their correct positions (very important).

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/munnst/saitek%20controller/DSCF0008_zpscgat5pb8.jpg

7) Gently prise a pot, using a flat head screwdrive from one controller being careful to not break the wires. Do not remove the glue. This will help reseating the pot on reassembly.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/munnst/saitek%20controller/DSCF0016_zpswnxsmhif.jpg

Note the orientation of the slot. It is 5 - B. Very important! BTW if you get it B-5 the stalk will operate in reverse!

8) Gently push the centre out by pushing on the clips. It comes out very easy.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/munnst/saitek%20controller/DSCF0012_zpskrthgquh.jpg

Note the `bump` which contacts the base. This bump must be re-fitted pointing at number five on the pot (assuming you followed this guide and the stalk was at max).

I didn't clean this part but I did gently tease the bump forward so it makes a better contact.

9) A dirty pot. Note the gunk. Dip a cotton bud in IPA and clean it until nice and clean.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/munnst/saitek%20controller/DSCF0014_zpso1pqo7uw.jpg

10) A clean pot :-). You can now see the tracks.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/munnst/saitek%20controller/DSCF0015_zps1zg9a0pj.jpg

11) Reasemble the pot making sure the bump is pointing at number five. Note the image below.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/munnst/saitek%20controller/DSCF0010_zpszyizdwuv.jpg

I got this wrong on one and the control operated in reverse. :wall: Not a biggie just means you have to dissaemble again.

12) Gently re-insert the pot making sure again the stalk has not moved. It should click gently into place.

Reassembly is the reverse. Insert the stalks (making sure that a) they are not crossed over each other and b) the circuit board fits nicely without having to cross the wires). Force the stalks past their sticking points until the heartrenching crack! Insert the 6 screws. Insert the cable guard and grub screw. Screw the circuit board in place. Fiddle with the wires until the base place goes back without any resistance. Refit the G-Clamp.

This stage requires some coaxing to get the three controls fitting nicely. When you hit the sweat spot it's very satisfying. Just expect 10 minutes of frustration and head scratching.

Don't force them.

13) Now hope you got the pots correct. Run joy.cpl and re-calibrate.

Both my two throttle quadrants work pefectly :excited: :tunes: :guinn: Probably better than they did before.

I am a very happy simmer again.

Ted.

Ted, I don't have a Saitek throttle, but I want to commend you highly for this detailed walk-through. Especially I wish to compliment you for illustrating this with still photos, instead of a video! In my earlier professional life I used to write maintenance manuals, so I can really appreciate your professionalism in writing this.

And what you describe here for the Saitek can also be adapted to other brands of throttle, and to joysticks as well.

Damn good work!

Jorgen

Hi Jorgen,

thank you for you kind comments.

You hit the nail on the head. I've seen a few videos that try to answer the Saitek problem but they are either poorly narrated or lack detail so decided to create a still image tutorial as I find they are a lot easier to follow.

Regards,

Ted.

Hi Ted, thank you for your fantastic posting. Unfortunately it arrived about a month too late for me as I had already purchased a replacement. However, I kept my old set with a sticky throttle so I may have a go anyway so that I have a spare. Great work.

Regards

Stinger

Sent from my SM-A300FU using Tapatalk

How long will it last ? And where does the dirt come from ?

The encasings is more or less closed.

Is it the inferiour pods ? So after a while it build up again ?

How much can one 'scrape' off before they are dead ?

Questions...

How long will it last ? And where does the dirt come from ?

The encasings is more or less closed.

Is it the inferiour pods ? So after a while it build up again ?

How much can one 'scrape' off before they are dead ?

 

Questions...

Will see if Ted comes back with some answers....but in the meantime:

How long will it last? Probably a very long time depending on use.

Where did the dirt come from? Not dirt, but gunk probably caused by a conductive lube used by the pot's manufacturer. rubbing electrical contacts will cause arcing and combined with the conductive lube will cause a build up of gunk.

Will it build up again? Possibly a lot slower if

the contacts are left clean and dry.

Keep in mind there is no "scraping" going on. Cotton pads, or swabs are used.

Personally, I would use WD-40 for the initial cleaning and then go at it with alcohol.

When I had my quadrant acting up, I tried all everything. Alas, they all turned out to be short term solutions. The fact is that unless you can find replacement pots, you can pretty much kiss the quadrant goodby.

tony

How long will it last ? And where does the dirt come from ?

The encasings is more or less closed.

Is it the inferiour pods ? So after a while it build up again ?

How much can one 'scrape' off before they are dead ?

Questions...

Not dirt, but gunk probably caused by a conductive lube

Most likely lube of some sort. Something I hadn't considered was to re-lube the pots.

Anyone know a good electrical pot lube :-)

The pot itself didn't seem to be worn at all.

I used a cotton bud so no damage was caused to it during cleaning.

I would imagine these pots are a standard component of some sort. Maybe easy to replace?

At the end of the day if it adds an extra 6 months to a year or two life I'm happy with that.

Most likely lube of some sort. Something I hadn't considered was to re-lube the pots.

Anyone know a good electrical pot lube :-)

 

The pot itself didn't seem to be worn at all.

I used a cotton bud so no damage was caused to it during cleaning.

I would imagine these pots are a standard component of some sort. Maybe easy to replace?

 

At the end of the day if it adds an extra 6 months to a year or two life I'm happy with that.

Try a drop or two of De-Oxit. Available at your local "out of business" Radio Shack or other electronics store. I used it all of the time on electronic plug connectors to keep the contacts from oxidizing and losing connection.

These pots seem to be a specially made joystick pot.

FM10K

http://www.polyshine.cn/uploadFile/FM10K-2014-01-04-04-10-37.pdf

8 = Long Life

5 = ?

B = Linear Resistance Taper

103 = ?

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=151869