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Beginner - Guidance on the Selection Of Most Appropriate Controls (switches etc)


Wintersedge

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I am delving into the world of home cockpit building. I'm looking at starting with something relatively "simple" ... recreation of the Twin Otter (Aerosoft DHC-6 Twin Otter Extended) cockpit.

 

If I'm on the right basic track, I'd like to interface the collection of switches and dials through the Leo Badnar BBI-64 Button Box USB interface and FSUIPC and LINDA assignments.

 

I am a bit uncertain though what type of electronic controls I should be shopping for to best suit mimicking the controls in the real cockpit.

 

Toggle Switches

- what kind of toggle switch would I need to an up function, centre off, and down function (SPDT?). For example for use of the IND SELECT SWITCH ... position 1 (Left generator), position 2 - centre (Battery) and position 3 (Right Generator), or the power source switch ... up position (External), centre position (OFF) and down position (Battery)

- SPST is pretty obvious ... for simple two position (on/off) actions like that of the DC MASTER switch ... up position (OFF) or down position (DC)

- this is one that eludes me ... the AFT and FWD BOOST switches. This is basically a SPDT(?) switch, up position (ON), centre position (OFF) and down position (TEST). Where I lose sight is the test position is just momentary. As soon as it is released, it goes back to the centre (OFF) position. It needs to be held in the TEST position. What would I need to shop for in this case?

 

"Dials"

- consider the Twin Otter's Fuel Selector Dial. Left (BOTH ON AFT), centre (NORM), and right (BOTH ON FWD). I suppose another SPDT swith would work here, but what control would I use to most closely mimic the dial? A similar dial is used for the STATIC SOURCE switch.

 

And finally, although not yet at a point of needing these, what is the difference between rotary switches and rotary encoders. What examples would a rotary switch be used, and in what examples would a rotary encoder be used?

 

And what about ratings on these components ... volatage, amperage etc. Are there specific values, or appropriate ranges I should look for. Switches may look similar, but I also realize that they don't all perform the same or handle the same current etc. I would imagine some are more appropriate (necessary) than others.

 

Thank you all for your patience!

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You can use an old keyboard as a switchboard to be used in flight sims. Check out HidMacro at http://hidmacros.eu/ works at FSX, P3D and P3DV4. You can have as many keybords as you wish and every keybord config in its own way!

Look at my site http://snell.se/flightsim/?Mina_proj...Simple_Cockpit. Sorry most in swedish but the link to http://www.hidmacros.eu/ my be useful.

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There's a really good set of videos on YouTube detailing the build of a twin otter. Worth a look and if you contact the vid uploader I'm sure he'll give you some help.

I think he has sorted out the Linda module for the Twin Otter, so half of your work is done.

 

I built my own cockpit based on the Embraer Phenom 300.( A vid of it is on the tube also if you are interested)

 

I used Linda and Leo Bodnar cards (9 bbi32's to be precise).The only problem i had was finding an off-on-on toggle switch. I never did.

 

Cheers

Stinger

 

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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This is great stuff guys, thank you!!

Is anyone able to suggest a good resource to help me understand the different hardware options available, and how to select the appropriate for this project. For example, will any pushbutton or toggle switch work (if I go to my electronic hobby store and just pick off the shelf any toggle switch)? I'm not keen on the smell of burning electroncis lol.

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This is great stuff guys, thank you!!

Is anyone able to suggest a good resource to help me understand the different hardware options available, and how to select the appropriate for this project. For example, will any pushbutton or toggle switch work (if I go to my electronic hobby store and just pick off the shelf any toggle switch)? I'm not keen on the smell of burning electroncis lol.

Yes, i used standard toggle micro switches for my project from ebay. They only have to deal with 5v dc (usb voltage). If you are unsure just buy one, hook it up to one of your Leo cards and assign it in Linda/fsx. Job done.

 

As for the push switches all you need to think about is if you want it to stay on after you have let go, then push again to turn off (these are called latching switches). Momentary switches will stay on whilst you are pushing it but turn off when you let go.

 

All the best

Stinger

 

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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Thank you stinger!

 

So, as I'm shopping for components I know know that I'm looking for switches with a rating of 5v DC ideally. Failing to find 5v DC components, can I use other rated switches within a range? If so, what would the maximum DC voltage I could consider? Can I use an AC switch?

 

Similarly, do I need to be concerned about current ratings? Is there a preferred current, or am I safe to shop within a range? Am I able to use either components rated as AC or DC? Or just DC?

 

As you can tell, electronics is not my strong suit! I can remember some basics from high school electrical classes, but that was a long time ago!!

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Thank you stinger!

 

So, as I'm shopping for components I know know that I'm looking for switches with a rating of 5v DC ideally. Failing to find 5v DC components, can I use other rated switches within a range? If so, what would the maximum DC voltage I could consider? Can I use an AC switch?

 

Similarly, do I need to be concerned about current ratings? Is there a preferred current, or am I safe to shop within a range? Am I able to use either components rated as AC or DC? Or just DC?

 

As you can tell, electronics is not my strong suit! I can remember some basics from high school electrical classes, but that was a long time ago!!

AC or DC toggle switches are fine. USB 3 puts out a max of 0.9a so as long as your switch can handle that you'll be fine.

 

Most on ebay are much higher rated both in voltage and current which are fine to use with the Leo Bodnar cards.

 

Leo has some for sale to give you the idea but there are cheaper ones on ebay.

 

 

Cheers

Stinger

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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