Additional Information

Try to use one design philosophy. Go for a Learjet style, Beech, Boeing or Cessna. I chose the Beech aircraft in FS (though I used a Piper yoke) but try not to be too specific. Otherwise it will feel unnatural to fly different aircraft with your hardware. Unless you want to make an exact copy of a certain cockpit off course. I had two important design features in mind. Ease of installation and removal of the set-up and be able to use it for a wide range of aircraft.

Donor Hardware

Logitech offers a nice line of products with lots of features and updates drivers often. These devices are easily converted. You may want to try cheaper hardware but I have no idea if they will work as well. Be very aware that opening it up will void any warranty! Logitech provides software for programming, but the last time I checked (already some time ago) it only allowed you to program one device at the same time.

All my devices are USB which comes in handy because USB is hot plugable. Setting up my hardware takes just 2 minutes and I am ready to fly. This includes moving my monitors. I do have an internal 4 port USB hub in my PC. It is conveniently installed in the front of my PC. As well as two additional USB ports which are a common feature on most PC's nowadays.

The joysticks need proper calibrating but they allow for differences in potentiometer values. They do not need to be calibrated every time the joystick are plugged in. Windows uses the last settings. There is a certain minimum angle the potentiometer needs to turn to be able to calibrate it. You just have to try to see what each device needs. It can even depend on the particular axis.

The game pads on the other hand need no calibrating but are calibrated as soon as each axis is used for the first time. One thing to keep in mind is the fact the game pads use some kind of compensation for the fact that e.g. left up will produce smaller pot rotation than full left or up. This is due to the fact the joystick on the pad moves in a circle. A joystick moves in a square.

Chose your device depending on your requirements. I check my controls free and correct before each flight; this calibrates the controls. The controls need to be in the neutral position when plugged in otherwise the neutral position will be offset for the session. In case I forget, I just pull the plug of the device concerned out and back in (best not to do this in FS but beforehand). I do pay attention to which device gets plugged in which USB port. Windows somehow scans the ports in a certain order and this in turn determines the order of the devices. When they are out of order FS will react to the order in which it was programmed. (for example: joy1 x-axis is ailerons and joy2 x-axis is rudder, when they are in the wrong order the plane will roll when you use your rudder).

Button Programming

I use FSUIPC to program the POV buttons. The other joystick buttons can be programmed using the assignments menu in FS. But you are not limited to these. Pete Dowson has a list of the FS controls available on his site and you can edit the FS9.cfg (or FS200x.cfg for older versions) to add the extra commands. I found FSUIPC sometimes misses a button press. This may have to do with the length of my button pulses generated by my circuits but when I tested these FS2000 still was able to use the POV for 8 different functions depending on direction. This was lost in FS2002. Fortunately Pete Dowson built this feature into his module for which I am very thankful. You need to register it to use this feature but it is well worth it. But it's best to program the buttons using assignments as far as practicable or editing the fs9.cfg. This can influence the type of control you connect to the buttons or the POV. I would not want a failing gear switch. A frequency swap function on the other hand is not that critical.

Axes Programming

The axes can be programmed by using the assignments feature in FS. But you may want to use FSUIPC to tune the way FS responds to your axes. FSUIPC provides a way to change the center position of the joystick axis as well as the minimum and maximum deflection (dead zones at the end can prevent riding the brakes for an entire flight or fluttering spoilers or inability to cut the mixture fully). FS uses one half of the throttle axis for reverse and the other half for normal operation. Feathering also takes up half the of the prop axis. FSUIPC lets you alter this so your FS reverse starts where your hardware reverse starts. The same applies to feathering props.

Parts

Finding the right parts can be a little hard. Unfortunately people don't spend as much time tinkering and this has caused a decrease in the number of electronics shops and the diversity of available hardware. At least in the Netherlands.

I bought a lot of my switches and other electronics in Den Haag at "Stuut en Bruin" (nice to know for people living in Holland) But sometimes I bought the last of their supply. You have to be careful if parts will not be available anymore because if it breaks you will have to rework part of the project. Conrad electronics has a good online store but I like to see what I buy before I buy it.

Use your imagination and see what else is available. Visit different hardware stores. I found nice thick nylon rings which proved ideal as bearings for the yoke rod where the enter the box. Another store had different rings which were used in the throttle quadrant. Nylon is a great bearing material which does not need lubrication I used a broom stick to make the throttle prop and mixture knobs. That took a lot of woodworking skills I was previously unaware of.

I found nice generic gear wheel sets at a modelling shop. You might want to try K-nex or Lego or stuff like that. These companies often sell parts separately or in small expansion packs.

I found it hard to find springs for my project. Sometimes the size was right but the strength was wrong, or the other way round. You don't know how the yoke will feel unless you try. I used a CH products original spring for the roll axis to replace my original spring which was a little weak. They sell these via their dealers. They also sell buttons etc. I also got a CH POV switch. More info can be found on their website.

Try your luck at your local airfield and talk to the mechanics, maybe they've got something laying around which they are willing to sell. Maybe they will let you take measurement inside the airplanes or just look around to get some ideas.

Labels

Labels on your switches are mandatory. I used the Dymo label system. I got clear film with white letters. This works well on grey background, even better on a black one. A small downside of the Dymo film is the fact that it's glossy, while I used satin paint on my project. If you know someone who owns one of these printers or similar systems you only need to buy the film. It's not very cheap, but looks good. It can also help your kids keep track of their belongings in school This is often used on real aircraft when additional or new placards are needed.

Paint

Revell or Humbrol model paints can be used to paint small parts, matte gloss or satin, available in lots of colors. These were used for the mixture and prop knobs on the throttle quadrant. The containers are only 15 ml but will last long. The paint is very durable. Use several thin layers to get a very nice result. The knobs don't feel like wood at all. One thick layer will not cure properly leaving you with a sticky feeling after flying.

Wiring

Try to save on wires by using 1 common ground wire for systems or buttons which share one ground connection. The yoke features 4 buttons and one rumble motor, I only use 2 ground wires. 4 wires in each telephone wire means I needed 2 telephone wires running from the yoke to the box. The Logitech devices have a clustered set-up, often 4 buttons share a common ground, combining groups tends to produce strange results though.

Expandability And Durability

Always think ahead, as much as possible. Think about leaving room for future expansion; trust me you'll need it. You'll want it, it's addictive. I still want to add a rudder trim and aileron trim to the throttle quadrant. I have a few spare axes and the wires are already connected, I just need to build the hardware.

Think about easy disassembly, things break down, they will. Soldering can corrode and produce bad connections, wires will break near soldering points when you're working on your hardware. Longer wires will allow you to have easy access as well without the immediate need to take your hardware apart. Use connectors on circuit boards so you can take one board out of your hardware without the whole wire spaghetti attached to it. Think about the stresses parts will have to face, try to build it strong and durable. You will have a lifelong on-site service warranty on your device

Soldering

Get a good soldering iron with a thin tip. I used a 15 watt one for the circuitry. A damp sponge will help you clean it as you're working. Clean the tip of the iron to get rid of burned soldering alloy, this can cause bad soldering connections. You can use shrinking plastic hose to insulate soldering connections, it is better and more secure than tape.

Costs

The total cost of the project was approximately between 750 and 800 euros. The yoke was about €450 and the radio panel about €275. The rest was spent on the throttle quadrant and the modification of the rudder. The donor devices were 2 joysticks, 2 game pads and 1 rumble pad which add up to about 150 euros. I paid about 160 euros for the yoke (a Cessna one would have been a lot cheaper). Electronics have a tendency to add up, between 2 and 5 euros for one switch. Encoders are not cheap either, 5 euros each, and another 5 for the knob. Using 14 of these will add up to €140. Not mentioning the IC's etc.

Wood, aluminum, etc. are the cheapest parts. Nuts and bolts are not that expensive either. It does pay to shop around. The clamps I used to fix the yoke and throttle to my desk were available at two stores, where one was twice as expensive, the only difference was a brand name on the expensive ones.

I just don't think about the time spent on the project otherwise it would seem unaffordable! The radio panel was built in my spare time wile I was a full time flight instructor. The yoke and throttle were built in about 2 months time during a period when I was partly unemployed. The rudder modification only took a couple of afternoons.

About The Author

I live in The Netherlands and I started with FS in 1989 using FS3 at the age of 13. I started glider flying at 16. Somewhere around that time I built my first FS hardware--rudder pedals. After school I got my written ATPL. I got my CPL and Instrument Rating in 1997. During that time I worked in a well known aviation shop in Aalsmeerderbrug as a flightsim specialist. After that I flew on the PA31 and worked on becoming a flight instructor. In 2000 I became a full time flight instructor. I even use FS during ground school to explain for instance VOR and ADF.

Disclaimer

The information provided may not be sold on. The use of the information provided is at your own risk. Damage to you or your property resulting from any of the things I wrote down is not my fault. Take proper precautions, and a lot of common sense! I know I hurt myself a few times during this project, but I survived with no permanent damage

Ferry Herfst
The Netherlands
Navajo_ArcherII@hotmail.com

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