How To Build Your Own Cockpit

Parts 12 - 14

by Kev Saker

Part 12-13

I have had a number of requests about the structure of the Phantom, as a result I have included some diagrams on the construction of the cockpit, see part 12 and 13.

First a chipboard base is built; this needs to be solidly constructed, as the weight is quite considerable when the cockpit is complete. Next the front rudder pedal box should be made; this forms a table were the monitor will stand. If you are using a Fresnel lens you can see the approximate position. From here I built up the side consuls using MDF board and install the throttles and flap lever etc. all the switch panels are made of plasticard which can be obtained at model shops or sign makers.

You may well be building another type of aircraft so I will not go into detail on the individual panels. If you need to obtain accurate drawings of panels for different planes try a company called "Detail Scale", they produce a large range of books on just about any military aircraft, you will find all the info you may need as well as cockpit dimensions too. Any good aviation book supplier will keep Detail Scale also try model shops etc.

I think it makes good sense to build the interior of the sim first because you can be sure that the side panels and front panel are the right size etc., and you can install all flight controls while they are easy to get at. When you are happy with the interior you can begin building up the cockpit frame, this is built of wood.

The rear panel is cut from ply sheet. The cockpit frame needs to be quite sturdy, as you have to climb in, so it needs to be able to take your weight. A good idea is to screw the rear panel to a wall this will give your sim the rigidity it needs.

The two cockpit side rails should be made of 3"x 2" wood for strength. When you have built the frame you can start the outer skin, this is best done using thin marine ply wood, make a card template for each section then cut out the wood using a electric jig saw. When complete buy several sheets of very thin aluminium and cover the ply using a rivet gun to secure it to the plywood. This gives the sim an excellent look and feels right. Finally buy two lengths of aluminium plate and screw these along the cockpit side rails.

The cockpit canopy is made up from aluminium strip and depending on what type of visual system you are going to use can be glazed with thin acrylic sheet.

If you wish to build the complete canopy, this can be done by cutting out the rear bulkhead of the canopy from ply and building up the bow frame from aluminium. I went to my local car breakers and obtained a gas filled telescopic arm (the type used on car hatchbacks); this supports the weight of the canopy and lifts it easily. Again this can be glazed with thin acrylic sheet. If you want that opaque look for your canopy but still let light through buy a plastic mattress cover and fix to the canopy, you can attach this with white insulating tape then using a electric hair dryer stretch the thin plastic cover drum tight so there are no creases.

As I have said before there are so many good stick and throttle combinations available now there is little point in making them yourself, also you can program many functions to the various buttons as in the real aircraft (HOTAS hands on throttle and stick).

Any other functions, for example gear flaps engine start stop weapons jettison etc. can be controlled from the relevant panel using my solenoid interface or an EPIC card. It is possible to buy surplus ejector seats that have been made safe, this certainly would be an excellent finishing touch, However these proved too expensive for me so I built the seat myself and included a simple motion system, this will be described in the next and final module.

Part 14

OK, the 757 centre consul and front panel structure is the next logical thing to construct, looking at diagram 13 you can see the way to proceed, if you have not already done so build up the centre consul frame from strip wood as in the drawing. Buy thin aluminium sheet and cut panels that will form the enclosure, these must be easily removable so you can get at the workings within. You will see the pedestal box has two rails running down the centre, these are where you secure the various radio panels later.

Next we need to build the frame for the centre panel. At this point you need to decide what level of complexity you intend to have, if you are going to use only one computer you may wish to build up your own engine instruments etc., I decided to make my own instruments which would be linked directly to the throttles. If you look at drawing 20 you will see how this was done. However if you want to have computer-generated displays you can fit a monitor at the back of the centre panel, and use a second graphics card to drive it or you can use a second computer networked to your main machine. When you have decided which method to use you can continue building the centre panel.

Next to the centre panel I fitted the Fresnel lens, looking at diagram 14 you can see how this is positioned, it will need to be raised about 4" from desk height so the instrument panel and the external view is at the correct height. On this drawing you will see an X and an Y, these show the position of the left window pillar and the centre window pillar.

Finally for this drawing you need to construct the tray which holds the Autopilot panel. This can be made from aluminium strip and thin aluminium sheet for the sides.

Read other articles in this series