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I'm waiting on converting to msfs..... In the meantime I continue to use FSX. I have a working SWFF2 (with extremely poor rudder control!!!) and also an old set of CH rudder pedals. The pedals have a gameport connection but I have the USB adaptor. This, I think means I'd end up with the SWFF2 on one USB port and the pedals on another. Would that work??? (I'm not at home to try the pedals so looks for some insight.) Thanks.
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/images/notams/notams20/hone0413.jpgWe're very sad about the news that FlightSimExpo has beencancelled, but completely support the decision. Here's a little teaser of what was planned to be announced at theshow. (Image above) Source About Honeycomb AerunauticalLocated in San Diego, California, Honeycomb Aeronautical providesworld class flight simulation equipment for simmers, flight studentsand pilots. Web Site
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Condition is Used. I got it with a bricked computer so I haven't been able to verify that everything works. I plugged it in and hooked the radio stack to the main box and they were able to connect properly. when turning the key the hour meter starts to turn so it most likely works. rudder pedals need a bit of work. also comes with twin engine throttle quadrant and original documentation. I'm selling it because it does not support my flight sim that I use. looking for at least $3,000 Google drive link to photos- (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mfbMhCSIxEnZmv4kFt3kK9vVSJpx5xdZ?usp=sharing) I can provide more information or pictures if requested.
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How To...Rudder Pedals, My Version By Rod Patterson 23 August 2010 Firstly my thanks have to go to Bruce May and Bill Spencer for the inspiration and confidence to tackle this project. The majority of this project was made from materials laying around in my garage left over from previous projects of mine. I am a D.I.Y. enthusiast, a modeler, and a Red Baron II addict. I am also fortunate to have a large variety of left over bits and pieces in my garage to choose from. Most of the wood is 12 mm custom wood. The post for the controller is made from old Hoover vacuum cleaner aluminium extension tubes. This was inserted as a force fit into two layers of 12mm custom wood. This was then bolted to the pedal baseboard using a coach bolt and wing nut. The cover for the 100k linear pot was made from the plastic lid for a can of CRC. The aluminium 12mm 'U' channel was a left over from my model yacht and came from my local hardware store. The pedals are on rollers that were made from some 12mm O/D fiberglass rod, cut and drilled on a friend's lathe. These were fitted onto some heavy gauge piano wire as axles which were anchored into the base plates of the pedals by cutting a groove into the custom wood and clamping them into place with some small plates made from scrap metal. The plates were held into place using small wood screws. I have not fitted the brake bits and pieces as yet, they may come later, but provision has been made for them. The yellow plate in the central picture is an indexing plate to enable me to tell where central rudder is. The material was a left over piece of 2mm fiberglass sheet. The indexing is achieved by using a spring loaded ball catch from an old cupboard door dropping into a hole in the plate. The controller, Genius F-23, was modified by adding a socket at the rear, picture 3, so that when the plug on the cable from the 100k rudder pot is inserted, it transfers the connection from the internal pot. When the plug is removed the internal pot takes over again. The controller platform, 3mm custom wood, is clamped to the front of the slide out keyboard tray using two small G clamps, the red bits in pictures 1 and 3. A final touch of wood stain just to smarten things up a bit and you are all set to fly. For storage purposes, the whole unit breaks down easily and quickly, and is quite compact. Should anyone be interested enough, I am willing to supply any further details or pictures. Just let me know what you need at rodpatt@paradise.net.nz. It really wasn't as difficult as I thought originally to make these pedals, apart from the making of the rollers, only requires some basic woodworking skills. The only really tricky bit is the extension socket on the controller but even that is really just a change over switch! Have fun. Rod Patterson rodpatt@paradise.net.nz
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How To...Build Your Cessna Type Rudder Pedals By Kazutaka Mitsuishi (21 December 2004) I took my private while I was in U.S., and after I came back to Japan, I would like to use the FS2004 to keep my proficiency and to prepare my future IFR training. In order to do that I felt that I needed to make my rudder pedals because the word I often heard from my flight instructor is "right rudder!" (to compensate the strong yawing tendency during various maneuvers). The main material I used is 15mm by 15mm aluminum square pipe with the thickness of 1.5mm. I bought it at DIY shop for about $5 for 2m. I also decided to buy "hand riveter" which cost me about $50, and $3 for 100 rivets. I used it to assemble the rudder head. Other than that, no special tools are required although it is quite helpful if you have an access to the big machines. I put lots of photos and plans, so that it is much easier to see them that reading my poor English. But I would like to give several comments on some key issues. 1. To make return force to the neutral position strong, I put the stoppers (which is indicated in plan). Without these, the two springs pull each other at neutral position and recovering force become very weak at the position close to the neutral position. 2. The pulley used is sliding door pulley. It is cheap ($1 for two!), and strong and smooth! 3. The wiring is done by 0.8mm stainless wire. 4. The electric connection to PC is made by original USB/HID interface, which consists of PIC 16F876 and USBN9603. I do not go into the detail here. You can either search the net with these key words, or look for the how to section to find other way to make the interface. 5. I roughly measure the size of the Cessna pedal (from the several photos I took), but it is not exact. If you have a free access to a Cessna, please let me know the exact dimensions. Kazu Kazu32143952@hotmail.com
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How To...Build Your Cessna Type Rudder Pedals
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How To Build Quick and Easy Rudder Pedals By Bob Thorsden Before I begin, this is a simple and relatively crude way to get some rudder pedals onto your PC. I warn any purists or faint of heart to look away. For those of you on a tight budget but with access to a screwdriver, drill and wire cutter here's how. The plan is to obtain a simple joystick with self centering axes and heavily modify this for use as a rudder. A Saitek Megagrip III MX-230 was used in this example, but the principle can be applied to many others. The left/right action will provide the rudder movement by placing a wooden bar across this axis and pivoting it up and down with your feet. Firstly, remove the grip handle containing the two fire buttons. Cut back and insulate the wires used for the switches. Note their connections for future reference, these may be useful later. This leaves a short stubby shaft. This is important because the pedal bar fixes to this. Remove any suction feet if you want, this is going to be put on the floor and these are of no use on carpet. Obtain a piece of wood. This will be the bar on which your feet rest. In my case this is 450 x 45 x 30 mm. Drill a hole in the middle carefully. This is to be a push fit for the stub of the joystick, although it can be glued for extra resilience, the tighter the fit the better. I angled the hole slightly as I drilled it so that the top face of the bar was at a slight angle for my feet to rest on. Push it on carefully and leave it at the top of the shaft. This gives the clearance for the pivot left and right without bottoming out on the body of the joystick or the floor. I also place a second block of wood in front of the pedals to raise my heels and thus level my feet. That's it. All you need now is a simple joystick "Y" cable from your local PC supplier and away you go. Your original analog joystick will only have two axes enabled but both buttons will work. Select a three axis four button joystick with rudder enabled, for initial calibration. You may have noticed a connector on the left hand side of my first picture. This allows me to bring out the unused forward/back axis wiring and the two buttons disconnected from the lever. I bring these up to a small box by the keyboard. The slider is used for the throttle and I have programmed the two buttons as aileron trim, however these can be re-assigned in the normal way. I hope this gives some food for thought and although it was a temporary implementation three years ago, I have only just started developing a replacement. Importantly, inspect the joystick before purchase. The important thing is that a clean shaft is left after removing the fire buttons so that the wooden bar can be attached. Obviously you will void any warranty on the stick once you have started work. All the usual disclaimers apply: Needless to say, I do not accept any responsibility if it doesn't work or if my description messes up something in your PC or FS200x configuration. If you don't know how to use sharp things safely then you shouldn't be doing this. If you blow your computer up, it's not my fault. If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it. Ask someone who does. I don't want you hurting yourself or anybody else for matter, if you don't know how, or are unsure of how to do something ask someone who does. It's much safer and more enjoyable. These documents are for you to do with as is your will except money from it. You can change them in any way you wish but I still retain the copyright to them. I would ask that if you do change something and publish that you at least credit me as the source of your inspiration. If you have any questions or comments, good or bad about these pedals then you can mail me but please don't send attachments, they won't get past the firewall. Bob Thorsden thorsden@talk21.com Thanks to all the contributors who have had great ideas for creating rudder pedals and wonderful disclaimers, especially Rob Barendregt and Bill Spencer. Just one final note: digital sticks using the analog port won't work with this proejct, only plain basic analog sticks. It should work alongside sticks plugged into the USB port though.
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How To -- Make Your Own Rudder Pedals By Rob Barendregt If you are you interested in making your own very accurate rudders pedals with less than $10 worth of material, please read on. Introduction Fifteen years ago, when I bought a second-hand synthesiser, I needed a set of volume & wah-wah pedals. Since I couldn't find something I could afford at that time, I decided to make my own. See the pictures on the right. Now, I am also a flightsim fanatic, and I own a Logitech Wingman Force joystick. However, when flying with this for a few months I was ready for a new challenge: flying without auto-coordination with a separate rudder control. Using the keyboard for rudder control is very cumbersome, and especially when flying helicopters it's not accurate enough. Since I am quite satisfied with my joystick, I suddenly realized: why not use these musical pedals? And behold, with a little electrical modification and 2 hours of trial and error installing it, it worked like a charm! All you need is a PC with a unused analog game port (joystick port), some pieces of wood, three potentiometers (variable resistors) and some other small stuff. The operation of these rudder pedals is based on the principle of an analog joystick: a joystick axis is just a variable resistor. In my controller setup I use the Logitech joystick on a COM port, and these rudder pedals on the analog game port (controlling axis 4). What Is Needed? Two potentiometers, value between 20 - 50 Kilo Ohms. Exact value is not relevant since you can calibrate this 'joystick', but their value must be equal and they must be linear (not logarythmic). A small trim potentiometer, about 5 Kilo Ohms linear, to calibrate the exact center position of the rudder. Two knobs with fixed dial plates (prevents the string and elastic band from slipping off the knob). The diameter of the knob should be about 3 cm, which gives you a pedal swing of 4 to 5 cm. Replace the fitting screw of the knob with a small bolt. Two small metal plates (8 by 3 cm). Plates should not bend easily. Two vertical poles, wood, 15 cm long. Two pedal plates, wood, 20 by 7 cm. Two elastic bands and two pieces of thin, strong rope. One meter of shielded stereo audio cable. Two hinges, a bottom plate, screws, electric wire, a 15-pin male game port connector, etc. An ohmmeter. Assembly Instructions Screw the vertical poles to the bottom plate, the metal plate with fitted potentiometers to the vertical poles, and the pedals to the bottom plate with the hinges. Fit the knobs to the shaft of the potentiometers, fixing them onto the shafts with the small bolts 'A'. To obtain an accurate behavior the swing of the potentiometer must be limited to the linear area of the potentiometer (approximately 180 degrees, giving a range of 0.5 to 49 Kilo Ohms for a 50 Kilo Ohms potentiometer). This swing is limited by screws 'B' and 'C'. In the rest position (pedal up) the head of bolt 'A' should rest against screw 'B'. Connect the elastic band 'D' between to the bottom plate and bolt 'A'. Tie the rope 'E' between the pedal and bolt 'A, fitted over the knob on the potentiometer. Adjust the knob on the potentiometer shaft so that in the rest position: The potentiometer for the left pedal 'P-left' has a value of 49 Kilo Ohms The potentiometer for the right pedal 'P-right' has a value of 0.5 Kilo Ohms Adjust the rope and screw 'C', so that when the pedal is fully down (resting on screw 'C'): The potentiometer for the left pedal 'P-left' has a value of 0.5 Kilo Ohms The potentiometer for the right pedal 'P-right' has a value of 49 Kilo Ohms Press the pedals a few times. The elastic bands and ropes should run smoothly over the knobs. If the pedal pressure feels sloppy, just use thicker elastic bands. See electrical diagram. The trim potentiometer 'P-trim' should initially be set to half its maximum resistance. The potentiometers are connected to the joystick connector via a stereo cable. To limit electrical interference (resulting in jitter of the rudder), solder the cable shield to the potentiometer housing and connector housing. In this setup Windows sees the rudder as Axis 4. Pins 3,6 and 13 of the connector must also be connected to pin 1, otherwise Windows indicates the 'joystick' as "Not Connected". Installation Of The Pedals As A Windows Game Controller I can only make the description for Windows98, but it should be possible to get is working under Windows95/ME as well. Unfortunately installation and calibration of these pedals as a Windows Game Controller is rather cumbersome, since Windows does not have a default one-axis controller. If somebody knows a better solution, please inform me. This is how I did it. You temporarily need another potentiometer 'P-Temp' (any value between 10 and 100 Kilo Ohms), to simulate the axis 1,2 and 3 during calibration. Temporarily disconnect connector pin 3-6-13 from pin 1, and connect 'P-Temp' between pin 1 and pin 3-6-13. Also connect a small make/break switch (default 'break') between pins 2 and 4, to simulate Controller Button-1. Connect the pedal cable to the PC game port. Click Start - Settings - Control Panel - Game Controllers. Add a new Controller: Click Add - Custom, with Characteristic 'is a joystick' with 4 axis and 4 buttons. Name it 'Own Rudder' or something like that. Back in the Controller list ('Own Rudder' should have status OK now), click tab 'Advanced' and organise the Controllers such, that 'Own Rudder' has ID 1, and your other flight controller (in my case the Logitech joystick) has controller ID 2. This is important, since for some (to me) unknown reason, FS2000 gives an erratic rudder behavior if this analog rudder has another ID than 1. Click the General tab, and click Settings - Calibrate to calibrate the rudder. Calibrate Axis 1,2: center 'P-Temp', simulate a button click with the on/off switch, fully turn 'P-Temp' both sides several times, give button click, center 'P-Temp again, and give button click. Calibrate Axis 3: fully turn 'P-Temp' to both sides several times and give button click. Calibrate Axis 4: alternately, fully press left and right pedal several times, and give button click. Click Finish. Remove the pedal cable from the game port, and remove 'P-Temp'; reconnect pin 3-6-13 to pin 1 again. Connect the pedal cable to the game port again; the status of 'Own Rudder' should be OK again. Click Properties, and observe the axis indicators in the Test tab. Axis 1/2 should be in the upper-left corner, Axis 3 fully raised , and Axis 4 centered. Pressing the left pedal should raise the Axis indicator fully, pressing the right pedal should lower it fully. If OK, exit the Game Controller Window. Note: You can leave the make/break switch between pin 2 and 4 and use it as an additional button. I use it as a Brakes pedal. See picture. Installation Of The Rudder Pedal In FS2000 This description assumes that you now use a joystick on controller ID 1, with axis 01 and 02 for Ailerons and Elevator control, and optionally axis 03 as Throttle. Start FS2000 and go into the Options - Controls - Assignments window. Since you had your joystick configured as controller ID 1 (which is now ID 2) you have to redefine the Assignment list for Events and the joystick axes. Select the 'Own Rudder' under 'joystick type'; remove assignments for axis 01, 02, and 03, and assign axis 04 to 'Rudder Axis' Select your own joystick under 'joystick type' and click tab 'joystick axes'. Assign axis 01, 02, and 03 to respectively 'Ailerons, Elevator and Throttle axis'. Click tab Events/Buttons. Assign you button configuration to the proper events (copy them from the 'Own Rudder' list). Select your favorite Flight, using an aircraft with a visible rudder gauge on its panel (like the Concorde). Go into the Flights - Realism Settings window and deselect the Auto Rudder checkbox. Check that the rudder is exactly centered; if not, adjust 'P-trim'. Since the rudder control also controls and aircraft's nose wheel, you can also check it by taxiing on a runway, with no wind and all Flight Realism parameters set to 'real'. Select View - View Mode - Spotplane, and observe proper functioning of your new rudder (provided your aircraft's visual model supports it). A Final Word I know these rudder pedals do not look very professional. The initial installation is very tricky and it needs regular "maintenance" (you have to replace the elastic bands every few months or so), but hey...it's almost for free, and if you have properly adjusted them they are as accurate (and probably better) than some commercially available pedals. It took me about two days to make and install them (and making it was half the fun), and I've been using them for a few years now. Finally, obviously, I do not accept any responsibility if it shouldn't work or if my description messes up something in your PC or FS2000 configuration. But, if you have any comments, questions, suggestions or need support, feel free to send me an email (please: no large attachments!). Happy 'ruddering' Rob Barendregt rc.barendregt@planet.nl