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I developed combat style foot rests for MFG Crosswind rudder pedals, which allow for a much more precise and realistic 'heel on the floor' control. They come with re-enforcement mounting plates, braking spring adjusters, new spring tension wheel, are adjustable in width and height, and even damper mounts for main axis and brake damping. Compatible with all versions of MFGs. 75$ with free shipping on the webshop: https://www.combatpedals.com/
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I would like to use my Ch Eclipse Yoke and the CH pedals for controls. Since they are separate usb connections, how can I combine them into a single conrtoller? -
/images/notams/notams20/hone0413.jpgWe're very sad about the news that FlightSimExpo has beencancelled, but completely support the decision. Here's a little teaser of what was planned to be announced at theshow. (Image above) Source About Honeycomb AerunauticalLocated in San Diego, California, Honeycomb Aeronautical providesworld class flight simulation equipment for simmers, flight studentsand pilots. Web Site
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How To...Build Your Cessna Type Rudder Pedals By Kazutaka Mitsuishi (21 December 2004) I took my private while I was in U.S., and after I came back to Japan, I would like to use the FS2004 to keep my proficiency and to prepare my future IFR training. In order to do that I felt that I needed to make my rudder pedals because the word I often heard from my flight instructor is "right rudder!" (to compensate the strong yawing tendency during various maneuvers). The main material I used is 15mm by 15mm aluminum square pipe with the thickness of 1.5mm. I bought it at DIY shop for about $5 for 2m. I also decided to buy "hand riveter" which cost me about $50, and $3 for 100 rivets. I used it to assemble the rudder head. Other than that, no special tools are required although it is quite helpful if you have an access to the big machines. I put lots of photos and plans, so that it is much easier to see them that reading my poor English. But I would like to give several comments on some key issues. 1. To make return force to the neutral position strong, I put the stoppers (which is indicated in plan). Without these, the two springs pull each other at neutral position and recovering force become very weak at the position close to the neutral position. 2. The pulley used is sliding door pulley. It is cheap ($1 for two!), and strong and smooth! 3. The wiring is done by 0.8mm stainless wire. 4. The electric connection to PC is made by original USB/HID interface, which consists of PIC 16F876 and USBN9603. I do not go into the detail here. You can either search the net with these key words, or look for the how to section to find other way to make the interface. 5. I roughly measure the size of the Cessna pedal (from the several photos I took), but it is not exact. If you have a free access to a Cessna, please let me know the exact dimensions. Kazu Kazu32143952@hotmail.com -
How To...Build Your Cessna Type Rudder Pedals
Nels_Anderson posted a topic in Nels Corner - Articles
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How To Convert Your Force Feedback Wheel And Pedals To A Yoke
Nels_Anderson posted an article in Featured
How To Convert Your Force Feedback Wheel And Pedals To A Yoke By Keith Hackett OK, so you've been waiting for the joystick/yoke manufacturers to come up with an affordable force feedback yoke and can wait no longer. Please read on. Here's what I used: 1 x Saitek force feedback steering wheel and pedals. Non-USB. 2 x 100k linear potentiometers (sliders to you!) A set of drawer runners. A piece of aluminum (plywood would also suffice). Here's how I did it: On my computer desk I have a sliding drawer which I use to attach my steering wheel to. I attached the drawer runners to make it slide more smoothly (dont want to get into panic mode when landing!). To the bottom of the drawer I attached a piece of aluminum shaped thus: Then I cut a slot in the side of my desk to enable the wide part of the ally to poke through. The small tooth will operate the slider. I then took apart the Saitek pedals and replaced the existing two rotary potentiometers with the sliders and screwed these sliders to the side of the desk below the slot, in such a way that one of the sliders engaged the tooth in the aluminum. I then calibrated my wheel so that the pedals (now yoke action) both operated on the same y-axis. This way you only need to operate one of the sliders. I finally assigned the y-axis to elevators in FS2002 and clamped my wheel back onto the drawer and presto! You may wish to enhance it further by adding a self centering mechanism using springs/rubber bands attached to the sliding drawer but I find it quite acceptable without. I don't see any reason that this would not work using any make wheel/pedals as I am sure most non-USB pedals would operate in a similar fashion. I am no expert at electronics but found this a very simple way of converting my old wheel to a yoke. All I need now is a set of rudder pedals and I will be happy. I would be happy to answer any questions regarding the above but take no responsibility if you mess yours up! Keith Hackett Keith.Hackett@btinternet.com -
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How To Build Quick and Easy Rudder Pedals By Bob Thorsden Before I begin, this is a simple and relatively crude way to get some rudder pedals onto your PC. I warn any purists or faint of heart to look away. For those of you on a tight budget but with access to a screwdriver, drill and wire cutter here's how. The plan is to obtain a simple joystick with self centering axes and heavily modify this for use as a rudder. A Saitek Megagrip III MX-230 was used in this example, but the principle can be applied to many others. The left/right action will provide the rudder movement by placing a wooden bar across this axis and pivoting it up and down with your feet. Firstly, remove the grip handle containing the two fire buttons. Cut back and insulate the wires used for the switches. Note their connections for future reference, these may be useful later. This leaves a short stubby shaft. This is important because the pedal bar fixes to this. Remove any suction feet if you want, this is going to be put on the floor and these are of no use on carpet. Obtain a piece of wood. This will be the bar on which your feet rest. In my case this is 450 x 45 x 30 mm. Drill a hole in the middle carefully. This is to be a push fit for the stub of the joystick, although it can be glued for extra resilience, the tighter the fit the better. I angled the hole slightly as I drilled it so that the top face of the bar was at a slight angle for my feet to rest on. Push it on carefully and leave it at the top of the shaft. This gives the clearance for the pivot left and right without bottoming out on the body of the joystick or the floor. I also place a second block of wood in front of the pedals to raise my heels and thus level my feet. That's it. All you need now is a simple joystick "Y" cable from your local PC supplier and away you go. Your original analog joystick will only have two axes enabled but both buttons will work. Select a three axis four button joystick with rudder enabled, for initial calibration. You may have noticed a connector on the left hand side of my first picture. This allows me to bring out the unused forward/back axis wiring and the two buttons disconnected from the lever. I bring these up to a small box by the keyboard. The slider is used for the throttle and I have programmed the two buttons as aileron trim, however these can be re-assigned in the normal way. I hope this gives some food for thought and although it was a temporary implementation three years ago, I have only just started developing a replacement. Importantly, inspect the joystick before purchase. The important thing is that a clean shaft is left after removing the fire buttons so that the wooden bar can be attached. Obviously you will void any warranty on the stick once you have started work. All the usual disclaimers apply: Needless to say, I do not accept any responsibility if it doesn't work or if my description messes up something in your PC or FS200x configuration. If you don't know how to use sharp things safely then you shouldn't be doing this. If you blow your computer up, it's not my fault. If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it. Ask someone who does. I don't want you hurting yourself or anybody else for matter, if you don't know how, or are unsure of how to do something ask someone who does. It's much safer and more enjoyable. These documents are for you to do with as is your will except money from it. You can change them in any way you wish but I still retain the copyright to them. I would ask that if you do change something and publish that you at least credit me as the source of your inspiration. If you have any questions or comments, good or bad about these pedals then you can mail me but please don't send attachments, they won't get past the firewall. Bob Thorsden thorsden@talk21.com Thanks to all the contributors who have had great ideas for creating rudder pedals and wonderful disclaimers, especially Rob Barendregt and Bill Spencer. Just one final note: digital sticks using the analog port won't work with this proejct, only plain basic analog sticks. It should work alongside sticks plugged into the USB port though. -
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