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Thread: CH Products Flight Yoke Repair

  1. Default CH Products Flight Yoke Repair

    I have a CH Products Flight Yoke USB that it probably 10 years old. It works great but the clamps (that clamp the yoke to a desk) are stripped. In other words I can not tighten the clamps enough anymore so the clamps hold the yoke to my desk. Just wondering if anyone else has run into this problem and what you did to fix it? I have found replacement clamps and clamp extenders at the CH Product's Parts Store. But I don't think this is where my problem is. I think the actual base that the clamps screw into is stripped. Both clamps. I hate to shell out another $119 for a new Yoke.
    The only repair video I could find was one to change the internal springs to rubber bands. In that video's comments a guy states that he did use JB Weld to fix his stripped clamps. But he never said how he fixed it. Anyone out there run across this before and how did you fix it? Thanks.

  2. #2
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    I have a CH Eclipse yoke, and was using it on a desk that I couldn't clamp the yoke to. I ended up using Velcro to attach it to the desktop. It worked very well.


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  3. #3
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    With no disrespect, there are probably any number of amateur engineers here who are just itching to fix your problem. But before they can start, can you show some close-ups of what exactly is stripped?

    Having said that, and without seeing the problem, if it's the threads that are stripped in a nut or aluminium or plastic casting, then you might be able to get a larger size tap and tap new threads into it, and then use matching larger bolts.

    Alternatively, although you might end up with something too big, if you look at cockpits at say airliners.net, maybe you can cut and shape a piece of wood (and then paint it "cockpit flat black" ) into something like your favourite planes have their control stricks mounted on, and then screw the yoke into that. If you look at Chuck Napamule's pic in the current "Joystick FS 2004" posting, you can see that he has done something very similar.

    Again, none of these suggestions are very meaningful without seeing the exact problem.

    Steve from MUdgee.
    Last edited by old_wombat; 02-24-2015 at 06:39 PM.

  4. #4
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    Hi bam,
    I had problems with my CH yoke also. The treads were galled; bits of metal had come loose and were preventing proper rotation of the threads in the nut they screwed into.
    In the procedure you found about replacing the springs it shows how to disassemble the yoke but with the threads stripped you can't easily open the case. You need to, to fix your problem. I discovered that a very long and small diameter screwdriver can get into the hole at the corner of the case that allows loosening of those screws. Once opened you'll find that the nuts that the clamps screw into are turning in the depressions that are designed to prevent them from rotating. Using JB Weld or any epoxy can be used to prevent them from turning. I used a generous amount. I used a tap and die to clean the threads. When I recently started to feel resistance I immediately opened the yoke and cleaned the threads again. Just took a few minutes this time. I also used a bit of light oil on the threads.
    Jim F.

  5. Default

    Thanks all. I will try the JB Weld trick. Old_Wombat I haven't opened the yoke up yet to see what's stripped. That's why I was asking here if others had the same problem and what it might be. Looks like I'll need to open it up and try the JB Weld trick. Thanks.

  6. #6

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    I had this problem with mine too. The solution is to obtain 2 bolts that are the same length and diameter of the bolts that came with the yoke. I believe that the bolts are 1/4 inch by 5 or 6 inches long, but I could be wrong as I did this long ago. You will also need two nuts as well. If you open up the yoke you will see the two existing nuts in recessed holes. Simply pop those out and pop it the replacement nuts and then reassemble the yoke. Take note of how everything came apart to ease reassembly. Then you can remove (carefully!) the plastic handle from the bolts. I have found that placing the bolt in a vise with the plastic handle facing up and using a socket with a diameter larger than the bolt head works great for tapping the handle off the bolt. Then just install the replacement bolts in the plastic handles. I have replaced the nuts and bolts on my yoke and throttle quadrant. Try to get grade 5 or 8 bolts as if you can get them you will not run into this problem again. I replaced mine with grade 8 bolts and nuts and its held up for years.
    Last edited by Nightowl702; 02-27-2015 at 10:08 AM.

  7. #7
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    Hi again bam,
    Just to help answer any questions:
    The bolts have 1/4" - 20 threads and are 4 1/2 inches long. Replacing these with a different size would be impractical as they have to match with the other components; the knobs, clamps and case holes. Also the nuts must fit in the recesses.
    Higher grade bolts and nuts would be good but might be hard to come by, but if you don't already have the tap and die might be the best and cheapest alternative. I, fortunately, had some higher grade nuts so that was a partial improvement. Replacement nuts and a wire wheel on a grinder to clean the bolt threads could also get you by.
    Jim F.

  8. Default

    Thanks guys! I'll tackle this soon

  9. Default Alternate way to fasten a the ch yoke to a desk or table

    Quote Originally Posted by ViperPilot2 View Post
    I have a CH Eclipse yoke, and was using it on a desk that I couldn't clamp the yoke to. I ended up using Velcro to attach it to the desktop. It worked very well.

    The Velcro tip works well. I had a situation where I could not use the clamps so I drilled two, 5/8" holes in the table I mounted the flight sim onto. Take a piece of 1/2" CPVC plumbing pipe (NOT PVC) available at any hardware store and cut some short pieces long enough to fit all the way into the screw socket on the yoke, plus the distance you want it to protrude into or through the table or wood base you have.

    The CPVC fits extemely snug into the yoke sockets, so they won't fall out. The front part of the yoke will sit slightly above the surface. I cut a 3/4" thick pine wood and slid it under the front part and it worked fine. It was convenient because you could pull the yoke out of the desk or table easily if needed. Be very careful to measure and drill the holes the exact distance on-center to match the yoke. Very careful!

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