MOBO Front Panel Header

Hi Folks,

Just need a little help - working on assembling a new build - a little confused on the front panel header.

The MOBO has 5 connectors related to “power led” - my case has 2 leads for “power led”... I’m assuming I should use the 2 pins on the upper left of the header block - - - any idea what the 3 on the lower right of the header block are used for ?

Thanks...

Regards,

Scott

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi...

Thanks for your insights - seems to work - appreciate your help !

Regards,

Scott

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can connect the pins backwards ('-' and '+') and it won't 'hurt' anything. If it's 'backaswards' then the LED just doesn't light up. Then you just have to reverse the connections and then the LED will light up and you are done. Modern circuit boards have built-in protection in that a reverse polarity just gets ignored. Nothing more than that. The 'old' printed circuit boards would fry at even one tiny spark of static discharge. You still have to not get static discharge of course. But we have come a long way baby since the 70's.

Chuck B

Napamule

But we have come a long way baby since the 70's.

Chuck B

Napamule

Indeed. My Bro put two of his desktops together on his bed of all places. LOL

When I built my current PC I went to retrieve my anti-static wrist strap I purchased long ago. I picked it up and the cheap thing actually fell apart in my hand when I went to stick it on. So I there was no way in hell I was going to wait a day and go to the nearby PC shop to buy an anti-static strap. So while I was putting the PC together I kept my hand on the chassis as much as I could and exercised caution handling the motherboard, etc.

I still remember the day. During the late hours of May 5th to the early morning hours of May 6th 2017 was when I toiled for ten long hours carefully putting my baby together. It was in fact my very first PC build and I wanted to make damn sure everything was done right with absolute precision and careful attention to detail. And then I rechecked everything twice it not three times. Prior to that I've always had OEM desktops that I upgraded over time. I had a Dell Dimension 4600 that I upgraded the living crap out of except the motherboard. I upgraded the CPU, RAM, GPU, PSU, DVD/RW, 5.1 sound card and hard drives. It was my little beast back then and it was capable of playing Call Of Duty Modern Warfare. Although, in certain modded levels I would sometimes get some frame lag. But the PC held its own for a very long time with everything I did with it.

Referring to the header connector. My Gigabyte motherboard has a G-connector or something like that. You actually placed all of your tiny connectors in this one connector block and that connector block just plugged into the motherboard. It was fairly easy to use and pretty innovative. I'm thinking ASUS has the same thing and perhaps other motherboards as well. It makes building a PC much more easier.

You can connect the pins backwards ('-' and '+') and it won't 'hurt' anything. If it's 'backaswards' then the LED just doesn't light up. Then you just have to reverse the connections and then the LED will light up and you are done. Modern circuit boards have built-in protection in that a reverse polarity just gets ignored. Nothing more than that. The 'old' printed circuit boards would fry at even one tiny spark of static discharge. You still have to not get static discharge of course. But we have come a long way baby since the 70's.

Chuck B

Napamule

Hi Chuck,

Thanks as well...

Regards,

Scott

 

Referring to the header connector. My Gigabyte motherboard has a G-connector or something like that. You actually placed all of your tiny connectors in this one connector block and that connector block just plugged into the motherboard. It was fairly easy to use and pretty innovative. I'm thinking ASUS has the same thing and perhaps other motherboards as well. It makes building a PC much more easier.

Hi...

Hmm - yeah - this is the Gigabyte Z270 Ultra Gaming - I'll have to check the parts bag - I seem to recall seeing something like you describe... I didn't see it referenced in the manual though - maybe I missed it... I probably won't go back and pull it apart but I'll file it away for future reference...

This is my third build - Conroe - Sandy - now Kaby...

i7700k "delid" OC at 5Ghz with a Noctua NH-D15S and (4) additional Noctua case fans...

Ran a stress test at 5 Ghz - temps haven't exceeded 65C - I'm pretty happy so far...

Regards,

Scott

Scott,

Looks like you have it made in the shade! Wow. Nice rig. Mine is a i7 2600K which throttles down when not being pushed (down to 1.6 Ghz) so it stays around 40 - 45 C. I build mine from parts suggested by a very savy owner of a small PC shop about 30 miles away. I drove there just to see. But I got such a good deal on everything I drove back the next day and loaded the whole shebang and put it together the next 2 days (and nights - hehe). I also was very careful. Used a lot of horse sense-that helps!. It's been 8 years and my rig still jams. 30 fps in FSX. I want a i7 7700K too. Soon I hope. But I won't do water cooling. It's overrated imho. Cooling using fans is my choice. And I leave my rig on 24/7. Only shut down to clean it every 6 mos or so. One thing I did is sand the CPU flat using fine grid sandpaper glued to a board. Same for the fan contact area. Then I spread an even coat of silver oxide (not a glob, or a 'bead', like they suggest) and torqued it down slow and evenly. Ah, the good times.

Chuck B

Napamule

Edit: Oh, there is a LOT of static on a bed. Or the 'potential' (pun intended) for static. All I know is that there is a LOT on MY bed (hehe).

Hi Chuck,

I've been using my Sandy 2700K OC on air to 4.7Ghz with a Noctua Cooler - a fantastic machine - seriously - for six or seven years now and it still handles everything I throw at it pretty handily. It runs much hotter though - I'm into the low 80C's normally with this box... I was torn on building a new one because it performs so well - but it's time. The Noctua Coolers are rated as some of the best in the market and in performance tests surpass many of the water coolers - top notch product - huge fan (hahaha)... All my builds have used them and I have no intention of changing...

The 7700K is my first delid - with the Rocket CPU cracker and following a video on YouTube - it's pretty straight forward - LOL - actually my wife did the work for me as she's very meticulous in all she does and did a superb job (better than I would have done)...

Instead of using Thermal Paste - I used one of these graphite pads that had good reviews - worked perfectly and so much easier than dealing with paste - as my results show - two thumbs up in my book...

Regards,

Scott

Scott,

Looks like you have it made in the shade! Wow. Nice rig. Mine is a i7 2600K which throttles down when not being pushed (down to 1.6 Ghz) so it stays around 40 - 45 C. I build mine from parts suggested by a very savy owner of a small PC shop about 30 miles away. I drove there just to see. But I got such a good deal on everything I drove back the next day and loaded the whole shebang and put it together the next 2 days (and nights - hehe). I also was very careful. Used a lot of horse sense-that helps!. It's been 8 years and my rig still jams. 30 fps in FSX. I want a i7 7700K too. Soon I hope. But I won't do water cooling. It's overrated imho. Cooling using fans is my choice. And I leave my rig on 24/7. Only shut down to clean it every 6 mos or so. One thing I did is sand the CPU flat using fine grid sandpaper glued to a board. Same for the fan contact area. Then I spread an even coat of silver oxide (not a glob, or a 'bead', like they suggest) and torqued it down slow and evenly. Ah, the good times.

Chuck B

Napamule

Edit: Oh, there is a LOT of static on a bed. Or the 'potential' (pun intended) for static. All I know is that there is a LOT on MY bed (hehe).

Ooops - forgot quote.