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New Motherboard, CPU and Memory, Old SSD and Hard Drive


BigT-65

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I just bought a new motherboard, Z370, and a new CPU, i78700K, and new memory 16GB. I plan to rebuild my old computer using these new parts and keep my SSD and HD with all my programs and data intact. My old system has Windows 10 installed. My old system was also Intel based with an i7940 CPU and Asus P6T Deluxe V2 Motherboard and 12GB of memory.

If I just do the rebuild and leave the old drives in the machine is it going to boot up and run everything as before or is it going to be way more complicated than that? Has anyone in the forum done this and can let me know how it worked out? Advice is needed soon, new parts will be here in a week.:confused:

i7 8700K CPU @ 4.8 GHz, 32 GB DDR4 3000 memory, Gigabyte Aorus Z370 MB, EVGA RTX 2060 Super XC GPU 8GB GDDR6 Memory, MasterAir MA610P CPU cooler, 1TB PCIe NVMe SSD, 500 GB SSD, 2T HDD, 3 Asus 24" monitors, Saitek X56 Rhino HOTAS.[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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I looked up your previous thread where you asked when selecting this hardware.

There you said you have currently this sytem:

Asus P6T Deluxe V2 motherboard

i7940 CPU 2.93 GHz. -overclocked to 3.2

12GB of DDR3 memory.

 

Now going to a new system:

(also from previous thread:

Intel Core i7-8700K Coffee Lake 6-core 3.7 GHz (4.7 GHz Turbo)

Giabyte Z370 AORUS Gaming 5 motherboard

G.Skill Trident Z RGB series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 3000 memory.

 

So a different processor: i7 8700K

And a different brand mainboard

with a very different chipset: Z370

 

 

For the Harddisk this change is a problem.

Issue one is that the essential Chipset drivers and other core drivers are made to drive the old hardware. They will probably fail to drive the new hardware.

If you can't boot, you cannot replace the drivers with your new drivers. (no running system to work with).

And installing the new Chipset drivers while the disk is still in the old pc is also not an option, as those new drivers can't run the old pc.

 

 

Issue two. Many Windows versions are OEM. They can only be installed on one pc. Not taken to a new pc.

Replacing a single part, for example a videocard, does not make it a "new system", so the OEM licence stays valid.

But replacing a mainboard, a new system makes. With the licence only valid for the original Mainboard, you will need a new licence for the new Mainboard.

 

This is not the case in all Sold Windows Versions. OEM versions are limited like that. But Full copy's (more expensive) are not always limited and can be taken with you to the new mainboard.

 

 

You could try, and then try fixing all the driver problems. But chances it will work are very slim.

Better start with a fresh install.

 

How is that HDD partitioned?

How is that SSD partitioned?

On which one is the C partition?

And is the C partiton the only partiton on that drive?

What partiton is fsx in? And where?

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Thanks for the quick reply, not what I wanted to hear though.

The SSD is drive C and contains Windows 10 and all my programs. I believe that is the only partition on that drive. The system boots from this drive. Also FSX and all of it's components are on the SSD. Originally the computer had Windows 7 Ultimate and I had purchased the boxed version and I still have it. When Windows 10 was offered for free I made the conversion, so I don't have a Windows 10 disk, The Hard Drive is as it was before I got the SSD so it has also all the programs and Windows 10. I only use it now to store all my other data like pictures, movies, documents, etc. I kept all the programs and Windows 10 on there as a backup. I also have an external HD that I use for backup and it has a system image on it along with everything else. Doing a complete reinstall of everything is going to be an arduous task and I would like to avoid that if possible.

i7 8700K CPU @ 4.8 GHz, 32 GB DDR4 3000 memory, Gigabyte Aorus Z370 MB, EVGA RTX 2060 Super XC GPU 8GB GDDR6 Memory, MasterAir MA610P CPU cooler, 1TB PCIe NVMe SSD, 500 GB SSD, 2T HDD, 3 Asus 24" monitors, Saitek X56 Rhino HOTAS.[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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Search Google for "swap motherboard without reinstalling windows". You will find a ton of information on the subject.
Gigabyte GA-X99 Gaming G1, i7-5960X, Noctua NH-D14, Crucial Ballistix Elite 64Gb, Nvidia GTX Titan X, Creative ZxR, Ableconn PEXM2-130, WD Black SN750 250Gb & 2Tb NVMe/Gold 10Tb HDD, Sony BDU-X10S BD-ROM, PC Power & Cooling 1200w, Cosmos C700M, Noctua iPPC 140mm x6, Logitech M570/K800, WinX64 7 Ultimate/10 Pro
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Ok. Understood.

I will give the reinstall process a bit more though later.

 

For now though some info on the Win10 upgrade.

-You can download the install files for Windows 10 for free!

If you upgraded to Windows10 (free upgrade), downloading them is a good idea.

There are two versions I think.

From memory: Some users had Windows without utilities like RealPlayer and such. For them there is a different Install file download. I think it was mainly users in Europe that had that version.

Sorry, I don't remember the details.

Anyway get the correct version. Both downloads are on the same page on the Microsoft site.

(Or get both just in case..:))

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You can download a tool from Microsoft which will make a Windows 10 installation disk/USB drive for you: https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10.

Thanks for this link, I will make the installation disk. I do have a "System Repair Disk" for Win 10 64 Bit that I made when I upgraded from 7 to 10. Is that the same thing or not and will it help me with this problem?

i7 8700K CPU @ 4.8 GHz, 32 GB DDR4 3000 memory, Gigabyte Aorus Z370 MB, EVGA RTX 2060 Super XC GPU 8GB GDDR6 Memory, MasterAir MA610P CPU cooler, 1TB PCIe NVMe SSD, 500 GB SSD, 2T HDD, 3 Asus 24" monitors, Saitek X56 Rhino HOTAS.[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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The install files can only install win10 for free on the old pc. When you did the upgrade, you did not recieve a new activation code for the new OS.

Instead, during the Win7 to Win10 upgrade, the Id-number of the old pc was sent to the microsoft server and stored there. So they 'know' your hardware. And if you now reinstall win10 on that old pc fresh, it will activate.

 

However, without a Win10 activation code you can not activate win10 on the new pc.

You will need to buy a Win10 licence.

 

It is not an option to install your old OEM win7 on the new pc and then upgrade to 10. After all, the free upgrade offer is over.

 

Plus, after you upgraded to win10 you had 3 months to decide. After that time the new OS gets locked in, and your win7 OEM licence code becomes invalid.

 

All this goes for OEM licences. They are tied to the hardware they were first installed on.

 

----

something you could try:

-Buy Windows licence code.

-Plug old ssd into new pc.

-Turn it on and pray the system Boots, despite the wrong Chipset drivers.

-If it does boot, you will probably see a greyed out desktop and a message: "this copy of Win is not activated. The system will shut down in 1 minute." .

At that point you should somehow be able to re-activate Win10 using the new licence code.

And if that works you will still have to hope to fix the problems with the incorrect Chipset drivers. (BTW, these incorrect drivers can actually damage the new pc parts. Sending wrong commands to the parts can cause damage. )

 

--

all in all, installing fresh is way simpler and probably faster too.

-Buy a new ssd and a copy of Win10.

-plug the new ssd in.

-install win10 on the new pc.

Start installing programs and data on the new pc, and in the mean time keep using the old pc.

 

Move the old drives over only when you are good and ready. (and maybe format then before installing then in the new pc.).

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You have the best hardware you can get and are going to mess it all up because of software? MoxNix. If I was you I would install Win 7 Ultimate (if 64 bit) and get rid of obnoxious, snooping, Win 10. But that just me. But, yes, that image is for Win 10. Back up files. The file system is same (ntfs).

 

So you hook everything up. You boot to 10. Uninstall 10. Reboot. Put Win 7 disc in optical drive. Reboot and go from there. You best only have the SSD hooked up. Leave the HDDrive disconnected for now. Once Win 7 and your SSD are working then hook up HDDrive and it should recognize it. Your files are still there and safe irregardless.

 

I find Win 10 a pita. It calls home with all the info it can garner from ALL activity. Why? No matter. I don't like that. And if you change anything it refuses to work. It has an 'attitude'. They made Win 10 for business work (so they can sell you Office 65=TEXT not GRAPHICS) so not for 'games' with 'controllers'.

Chuck B

Napamule

i7 2600K @ 3.4 Ghz (Turbo-Boost to 3.877 Ghz), Asus P8H67 Pro, Super Talent 8 Gb DDR3/1333 Dual Channel, XFX Radeon R7-360B 2Gb DDR5, Corsair 650 W PSU, Dell 23 in (2048x1152), Windows7 Pro 64 bit, MS Sidewinder Precision 2 Joy, Logitech K-360 wireless KB & Mouse, Targus PAUK10U USB Keypad for Throttle (F1 to F4)/Spoiler/Tailhook/Wing Fold/Pitch Trim/Parking Brake/Snap to 2D Panel/View Change. Installed on 250 Gb (D:). FS9 and FSX Acceleration (locked at 30 FPS).
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What about this that I found on Microsoft website?

Reactivating Windows 10 after a hardware change

Applies to: Windows 10

________________________________________

In Windows 10 (Version 1607 or later), you can link your Microsoft account to the Windows 10 digital license on your device. This can help you reactivate Windows using the Activation troubleshooter if you make a significant hardware change later, such as replacing the motherboard.

Note

To see what version of Windows 10 your PC is running, select the Start button , then select Settings > System > About.

To add your Microsoft account and link it to the digital license:

1. Select the Start button, select Settings > Update & security > Activation > and then select Add an account. You must be signed in as an administrator to add your Microsoft account.

2. Enter your Microsoft account and password, and then select Sign in. You’ll also need to enter the password for your local account if the Microsoft account you entered isn’t a connected account.

3. After you add your Microsoft account, you’ll see Windows is activated with a digital license linked to your Microsoft account on the Activation page.

Note

If you've already added your Microsoft account to your device, you'll see Windows is activated with a digital license linked to your Microsoft account on the Activation page.

 

Using the Activation troubleshooter after a significant hardware change

After you add your Microsoft account and link it to your digital license, you can use the Activation troubleshooter to help reactivate Windows after a significant hardware change.

Note

If you didn't add your Microsoft account and link it to the digital license on your device, you won't be able to use the Activation troubleshooter to reactivate Windows after a hardware change.

 

 

1. Select the Start button, select Settings > Update & security > Activation , and then select Troubleshoot. You must be signed in as an administrator.

2. The troubleshooter will show a message that Windows can’t be activated on your device. Select I changed hardware on this device recently, and then select Next.

3. Enter your Microsoft account and password, and then select Sign in. You’ll also need to enter the password for your local account if the Microsoft account you entered isn’t a connected account.

4. From the list of devices that are linked to your Microsoft account, select the device that you’re currently using, select the check box next to This is the device I’m using right now, and then select Activate.

If you don’t see the device you’re using in the list of results, make sure that you’re signed in using the same Microsoft account you linked to the Windows 10 digital license on your device.

If you’re signed in using the correct Microsoft account, here are some additional reasons why you can’t reactivate Windows:

 

 

• The edition of Windows on your device doesn’t match the edition of Windows you linked to your digital license.

• The type of device you’re activating doesn’t match the type of device you linked to your digital license.

• Windows was never activated on your device.

• You reached the limit on the number of times you can reactivate Windows on your device.

• Your device has more than one administrator, and a different administrator already reactivated Windows on your device.

• Your device is managed by your organization and the option to reactivate Windows isn’t available. For help with reactivation, contact your organization’s support person.

If you need additional help reactivating Windows on your device, contact customer support.

i7 8700K CPU @ 4.8 GHz, 32 GB DDR4 3000 memory, Gigabyte Aorus Z370 MB, EVGA RTX 2060 Super XC GPU 8GB GDDR6 Memory, MasterAir MA610P CPU cooler, 1TB PCIe NVMe SSD, 500 GB SSD, 2T HDD, 3 Asus 24" monitors, Saitek X56 Rhino HOTAS.[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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You have the best hardware you can get and are going to mess it all up because of software? MoxNix. If I was you I would install Win 7 Ultimate (if 64 bit) and get rid of obnoxious, snooping, Win 10. But that just me. But, yes, that image is for Win 10. Back up files. The file system is same (ntfs).

 

So you hook everything up. You boot to 10. Uninstall 10. Reboot. Put Win 7 disc in optical drive. Reboot and go from there. You best only have the SSD hooked up. Leave the HDDrive disconnected for now. Once Win 7 and your SSD are working then hook up HDDrive and it should recognize it. Your files are still there and safe irregardless.

 

I find Win 10 a pita. It calls home with all the info it can garner from ALL activity. Why? No matter. I don't like that. And if you change anything it refuses to work. It has an 'attitude'. They made Win 10 for business work (so they can sell you Office 65=TEXT not GRAPHICS) so not for 'games' with 'controllers'.

Chuck B

Napamule

 

The latest CPUs aren't supported on anything less than Windows 10. And with ShutUp10 you can disable just about everything you could want to.

 

https://www.oo-software.com/en/shutup10

 

Windows 10 works just fine for games too.

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It still depends a bit on which edition of Windows 10 you have.

 

https://www.groovypost.com/howto/transfer-windows-10-license-new-pc/

 

This is good information too. I am pretty sure I have a digital license. I have a Microsoft account and there it says that I do. I upgraded to Windows 10 when Microsoft was allowing a free upgrade. At the time I had Win 7 Ultimate and when I upgraded I was given the option to upgrade to Win 10 Pro and I did. I am going to keep at this until I know it can be done. A couple of years ago I had to reinstall everything when I got my SSD. I don't want to do that again.

i7 8700K CPU @ 4.8 GHz, 32 GB DDR4 3000 memory, Gigabyte Aorus Z370 MB, EVGA RTX 2060 Super XC GPU 8GB GDDR6 Memory, MasterAir MA610P CPU cooler, 1TB PCIe NVMe SSD, 500 GB SSD, 2T HDD, 3 Asus 24" monitors, Saitek X56 Rhino HOTAS.[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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The latest CPUs aren't supported on anything less than Windows 10. And with ShutUp10 you can disable just about everything you could want to.

 

https://www.oo-software.com/en/shutup10

 

Windows 10 works just fine for games too.

 

I agree. I never had any problems with Win 10 and it was running FSX just fine on my computer. The guts of my computer are getting old, at least 10 to 12 years now. I need new stuff. You have to keep moving forward. Win 7 was good and I liked it but it is an antique now. Surely there is a way to do this upgrade without starting over completely.

i7 8700K CPU @ 4.8 GHz, 32 GB DDR4 3000 memory, Gigabyte Aorus Z370 MB, EVGA RTX 2060 Super XC GPU 8GB GDDR6 Memory, MasterAir MA610P CPU cooler, 1TB PCIe NVMe SSD, 500 GB SSD, 2T HDD, 3 Asus 24" monitors, Saitek X56 Rhino HOTAS.[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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I agree. I never had any problems with Win 10 and it was running FSX just fine on my computer. The guts of my computer are getting old, at least 10 to 12 years now. I need new stuff. You have to keep moving forward. Win 7 was good and I liked it but it is an antique now. Surely there is a way to do this upgrade without starting over completely.

 

You can certainly try just booting the computer from the current drive and try. I have done it a couple of times before, however, be prepared to reinstall from scratch if something goes wrong. Going from one Intel system to another shouldn't be too bad (Intel to/from AMD can be trickier, though it does work too).

 

The first step is to download the drivers for your new motherboard, especially the chipset and network drivers, and have them on the boot drive as well as on a USB stick (to be safe). Next clear out drivers and any associated utilities for the old hardware on your current system before disassembling it. It would be a good idea to make sure Windows is fully up to date too on the existing system. And make sure to have serial numbers or product keys handy for any commercial software you may have as some of those may also have ties to the old hardware and need to be re-activated too.

 

If it works it will be much faster than reinstalling and re-configuring everything, but as I noted above, be prepared to reinstall. In other words, backup everything you don't want to lose.

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It's called sysprep, and I have used it successfully with migrating my old computer to my new computer in my Sig. I really don't recommend this route. You should try this and just transfer your software over using an external large capacity USB stick or USB external HDD. https://www.easeus.com/free-pc-transfer-software/

 

Once you build your computer, install Windows 10 with your 7 key, (I think you can do that) and install the motherboard drivers from the motherboard website. I wouldn't use the disk that comes with the motherboard as it's likely those drivers will be old. It's nice to have in a pinch or no Internet.

 

Be sure to enable the XMP profile for your RAM and to turn on AHCI in BIOS before you install Windows. Just go into BIOS and configure everything before you install the OS. Do not use the fast boot feature prior to installing Windows. Only after.

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Okay, I just realized that software is a whopping 50 bucks. For free you can only transfer two programs. So here's what I did for sysprep.

 

I did not follow this guide since I use Win 7. But this guide is pretty much the same and applies to 10. https://www.petri.com/using-syspre-windows-10

 

Before you do that though, go in with the program Revo Uninstaller in safe mode and uninstall your video card driver and audio driver using Revo Uninstaller.

 

Now go into control panel into device manager and remove your network adapters.

 

Now you can run sysprep. Once the PC shuts down DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT reboot it. You will only boot this hard drive in your new computer as it's now ready for the new machine.

 

If all goes well you should have your data intact with Win 10. Just furnish your Win 10 or 7 product key. I'm pretty sure you can use the 7 key so I've read, but I'm not entirely sure about it. Like I said, I only use 7.

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One final tip:

 

The win 10 install will NOT be up to date. You will have to be prepared to download gigs and gigs of updated files so getting the online accessibility should be your first priority followed by at least a day or two for online updates - many are sequential so will only update after a prior update.

 

Under NO circumstances attempt a copy, install or load of your FSX installation until those precious Windows Updates are complete.

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Note, setting xmp profile before installing Windows is not a good idea. Xmp is an overclock setting. You should not use overclock settings while running an installer program. Especially not when something as important as an OS is being installed. Write errors can occur more easily when ram or processor are overclocked.

 

Xmp is an overclock setting for the ram. Within spec, so relatively safe. But still better to engage it after the installer finishes and you made sure Windows runs well.

 

But, I agree with loki. You can plug the old ssd drive in and just see what happens.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is an update on replacing motherboard, CPU and Memory without reinstalling Windows and all my programs. I got the new Giabyte Z370 Aorus Gaming 5 motherboard, i7 8700K CPU, 16 GB G.Skill Trident Z DDR4 3000 memory and Cooler Master MA610P Air cooler. I took out my old motherboard with CPU, memory and Cooler attached and put all the new stuff in. I left all my drives in place with Windows and everything on them. I plugged it in, started it up and everything worked as hoped. The only thing I had to do was reactivated Windows 10. I had to do this by calling Windows Tech Support. They did it for me no problem. i have done a thorough test of my drives, programs and especially FSX. It all works. After I found out how to identify all the old drivers I did go into Device Manager and delete a ton or old drivers, now everything is like new. So it seems that as long as you are using Windows 10 this sort of an upgrade is not a big problem. FSX performance is greatly improved.

 

Gigabyte Aorus Z370 Gaming 5 motherboard, i7 8700K CPU OCed to 4.8 GHz with Cooler Master MA610P Air Cooler, 16 GB G.Skill Trident DDR4 3000 memory, 500GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD, 2TB Seagate HDD, 1 TB Western Digital external backup HDD, 2 DVD RW Drives, Corsair 850 Watt Power Supply, 3 Asus 24 inch monitors in 5760 x 1080 resolution. Saitek X52 Flight System, Logitech G27 Racing Wheel and Pedal set, Windows 10 Pro.

i7 8700K CPU @ 4.8 GHz, 32 GB DDR4 3000 memory, Gigabyte Aorus Z370 MB, EVGA RTX 2060 Super XC GPU 8GB GDDR6 Memory, MasterAir MA610P CPU cooler, 1TB PCIe NVMe SSD, 500 GB SSD, 2T HDD, 3 Asus 24" monitors, Saitek X56 Rhino HOTAS.[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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I would roll back the OC to 4.2 Ghz. You shorten the life of CPU at 4.8 Ghz. It is GREAT (for a little while). Nobody's fault - but yours - if it ZAPS and quits next week/month. Too high a price to pay just to get 3 more frames per second. Nice job on re-install. Cheers.

Chuck B

Napamule

i7 2600K @ 3.4 Ghz (Turbo-Boost to 3.877 Ghz), Asus P8H67 Pro, Super Talent 8 Gb DDR3/1333 Dual Channel, XFX Radeon R7-360B 2Gb DDR5, Corsair 650 W PSU, Dell 23 in (2048x1152), Windows7 Pro 64 bit, MS Sidewinder Precision 2 Joy, Logitech K-360 wireless KB & Mouse, Targus PAUK10U USB Keypad for Throttle (F1 to F4)/Spoiler/Tailhook/Wing Fold/Pitch Trim/Parking Brake/Snap to 2D Panel/View Change. Installed on 250 Gb (D:). FS9 and FSX Acceleration (locked at 30 FPS).
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I would roll back the OC to 4.2 Ghz. You shorten the life of CPU at 4.8 Ghz. It is GREAT (for a little while). Nobody's fault - but yours - if it ZAPS and quits next week/month. Too high a price to pay just to get 3 more frames per second. Nice job on re-install. Cheers.

Chuck B

Napamule

 

Thanks for your reply. I am going to do as you suggest and roll back the OC. I set it on Auto Turbo Boost and with FSX running it is between 4.3 and 4.4 GHz. Frame rates are about the same between 50 and 60 if not near any large cities. I have the limit set at 60.

 

Gigabyte Aorus Z370 Gaming 5 motherboard, Intel i7 8700K CPU Auto Turbo-Boost to 4.4 GHz with Cooler Master MA610P Air Cooler, 16 GB G.Skill Trident DDR4 3000 memory, Asus Strix GTX 960 4 GB GDDR5 OC edition graphics, 500GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD, 2TB Seagate HDD, 1 TB Western Digital external backup HDD, 2 DVD RW Drives, Corsair 850 Watt Power Supply, 3 Asus 24 inch monitors in 5760 x 1080 resolution. Saitek X52 Flight System, Logitech G27 Racing Wheel and Pedal set, Windows 10 Pro.

i7 8700K CPU @ 4.8 GHz, 32 GB DDR4 3000 memory, Gigabyte Aorus Z370 MB, EVGA RTX 2060 Super XC GPU 8GB GDDR6 Memory, MasterAir MA610P CPU cooler, 1TB PCIe NVMe SSD, 500 GB SSD, 2T HDD, 3 Asus 24" monitors, Saitek X56 Rhino HOTAS.[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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Your frame limit shouldn't be that high. You want to give breathing room for other stuff. Set it at 25-30 FPS. Your eye won't see a difference. I personally set mine to 25. That is actually the European TV standard. Or at least in the UK.
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+1 . FSX frame rate should be LOCKED at 30 fps. That is plenty. No need for 60 fps. 4.3 to 4.4 is also plenty good and makes sense. I think you got all your Ducks lined up. Go fly!

Chuck B

Napamule

i7 2600K @ 3.4 Ghz (Turbo-Boost to 3.877 Ghz), Asus P8H67 Pro, Super Talent 8 Gb DDR3/1333 Dual Channel, XFX Radeon R7-360B 2Gb DDR5, Corsair 650 W PSU, Dell 23 in (2048x1152), Windows7 Pro 64 bit, MS Sidewinder Precision 2 Joy, Logitech K-360 wireless KB & Mouse, Targus PAUK10U USB Keypad for Throttle (F1 to F4)/Spoiler/Tailhook/Wing Fold/Pitch Trim/Parking Brake/Snap to 2D Panel/View Change. Installed on 250 Gb (D:). FS9 and FSX Acceleration (locked at 30 FPS).
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I agree on the frame rate question. If frame rated needed to be over 30 or so to watch a movie in a theater you can bet, they would do it. If you can't see flutter on the big screen of a movie theater I'd be totally shocked if it were a visible issue while simming!!

 

I call frame rate claims "Brag-ware." The poster is bragging about the money spent and other than inflating his/her own ego gains nothing from it. Except possibly some high cost equipment replacements in the future!!

Being an old chopper guy I usually fly low and slow.
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