Buying a new flight sim joystick

I currently have a Saitek X52 that I have had for several years. It has been great and I really like it. Lately twisting the rudder right doesn't seem to be working correctly. If done when calibrating I can see that it is not steady and does not go all the way right and stay still. I am thinking about getting a new setup and was wondering what was considered the best system without getting to crazy on price. Under $200. If you have a favorite let me know what you have and why you like it. Thanks

Thrustmaster HOTAS - I have had mine for 2 years and it's working just fine. About $50.

 

Jorgen

You might consider watching this video on repairing the X-52

 

Wim

Actually, I have the Thrustmaster HOTAS. It's a really nice joystick. But my one issue is with the throttle. I also had an X52 and loved it until I had those same issues. Not wanting to spend that much on another X52, I bought the Thrustmaster HOTAS. The throttle is incredibly sensitive, much more so than the X52 ever was. Also, not even close to the X52 when it comes to programming the buttons. I've learned to be ever so gentle when adjusting the throttle. But my advice would be to bite the bullet and buy a new X52. Far superior joystick.

I had the same thing recently. Not centering.

Tried to calibrate, didn't work. (always did so far).

Neither did unplugging and replugging fix it.

 

Then, tried settings-controls again and noticed the "reset" button. (before you get to calibrating itself).

That fixed it.

Calibrated after for good measure. Still good.

(Mine is a Logitech 3d pro.)

 

Other option that may help: unplug unneeded Usb devices. Power fluctuations on those can cause it too.

 

Especially check the printer. My printer showing an error on the device caused problems a few times as well with various other Usb devices. (error only showed on printer itself. red exclamation mark. Nothing showed in pc menu's).

 

 

To drain all residual power from Usb ports on some pc's you need to do a power reset. Could help also. Very simple:

shut pc down,

unplug mains power cord,

push power button on front of pc once or twice,

plug core back in,

boot.

Hi BigT,

Consider rudder pedals.

Jim F.

CH Products (Fighterstick, Pro Throttle, Pro Rudder).

 

I've had them all: Thrustmaster Cougar, Thrustmaster Warthog, Saitek X52 Pro, Logitech G40, Microsoft Sidewinder. You name it I had it. And every time, it is the CH Products that go back on my desk and the others that go back into their boxes and sold 2nd hand.

 

CH Products is the most consistent in terms of quality and versatility.

CH Products (Fighterstick, Pro Throttle, Pro Rudder).

 

I've had them all: Thrustmaster Cougar, Thrustmaster Warthog, Saitek X52 Pro, Logitech G40, Microsoft Sidewinder. You name it I had it. And every time, it is the CH Products that go back on my desk and the others that go back into their boxes and sold 2nd hand.

 

CH Products is just the most consistent in terms of quality and versatility.

 

Interesting... I have the Warthog and love it, though it's above the price range mentioned by the OP. It's so much more versatile than the X-36/X-52 or CH products, and it doesn't use pots (potentiometers) that get dirty and jump around after some time. And it has enough different switches and axes that I rarely have to touch the keyboard or mouse, adding to the ease of flying in the sim since I don't have to look around for most operations.

 

 

Granted that, for some things, you have to program it beyond just assigning a control to a switch/axis, but it's a joy for me to use. And it's rugged.

You might consider watching this video on repairing the X-52

 

Wim

 

I did see that video yesterday. I am in the process of moving right now but one I get set in and my system setup I am going to give it a go. I like the X52 a lot and would like to keep it.

Thanks for all the replies. If the fix doesn't work I will look into some of them.

The computer FSX is on is not working ATM. I'd like to know if anyone has ever found a use in FSX for (I think it is called) the rocker switch?

Interesting... I have the Warthog and love it, though it's above the price range mentioned by the OP. It's so much more versatile than the X-36/X-52 or CH products, and it doesn't use pots (potentiometers) that get dirty and jump around after some time. And it has enough different switches and axes that I rarely have to touch the keyboard or mouse, adding to the ease of flying in the sim since I don't have to look around for most operations.

 

 

Granted that, for some things, you have to program it beyond just assigning a control to a switch/axis, but it's a joy for me to use. And it's rugged.

 

Hi Inuss, nothing wrong with the Warthog. It is an incredible piece of engineering and everything you say. I guess I kind of "grew up" with CH Products, back when they had the Flightstick and then went onto their HOTAS products. It is very much a personal taste thing and nothing wrong with Warthog.

 

For example, the Warthog is much bigger, heavier and bulkier than CH Products, so I find it easier to fit CH Products around keyboard, mouse and monitor, without it hitting the monitor or getting in the way. I also don't like the cold metal touch of the Warthog, especially in winter, although many people prefer the metal strength. Having said that, I've never had a CH products structural break. I often play deep into the night and many of the switches on the Warthog throttle are quite loud, which disturb the family. The CH Products switches are almost inaudible outside the room. I also found the CH Products software much easier to use than the Thrustmaster TARGET software and have as many switches and functions available. Lastly, I use my joystick for many things, even space sims and car racing sims, believe it or not. And the CH Products has the perfect "throw" and resistance for racing, so I don't even need a big bulky racing wheel, hence my reference to versatility. So, those are all my reasons for preferring CH Products, none of which mean that it is better than the Warthog, only fits my personal needs better.

 

And yes, you are right about the pots, they do eventually start to act up, but in most cases it takes a very long time (more than five years) and then it is only one or two. They can be cleaned apparently, but CH Products sent me a replacement pot free of charge for one and it was an easy fix. Another one I've scavenged from an old discarded set of rudder pedals which I bought probably fifteen years ago and it is still functioning perfectly.

I currently have a Saitek X52 that I have had for several years. It has been great and I really like it. Lately twisting the rudder right doesn't seem to be working correctly. If done when calibrating I can see that it is not steady and does not go all the way right and stay still. I am thinking about getting a new setup and was wondering what was considered the best system without getting to crazy on price. Under $200. If you have a favorite let me know what you have and why you like it. Thanks

 

With twist axis problems on the X52 just be careful and check the following:

 

1. That you have both rotaries centered.

2. That other controllers are not affecting your X52 twist.

 

To explain further (from experience!) rudder pedals can easily be mapped to the rotaries by default or accident and the rudder can also be mapped to other controllers by default or accident. In my case for example, I had my twist/rudder in FS locking to one side. Scratching my head trying to figure out why it was happening I then realized my steering wheel was turned off-center. FS still sees my steering wheel as a controller and the steering is by default tied to the rudder in FS. If the steering is turned, so is the rudder in FS and now both X52 twist and steering wheel are fighting for rudder control. Exactly the same can happen with the rotaries and you'll have two things fighting for rudder control. (Been there too! lol)

Your better off buying the old Microsoft Sidrwinder Pro. Make sure you get one that had the USB to Gameport adaptor. No other adaptor will work. Pay no more than $40. this with free shipping. I've use them for years. I have a Saitek controller with the rudder controller. and cannot get the brakes to work? I've tried every combination of calibrations they allow without any luck.