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Model : Logitech Joystick USB Extreme 3D Pro Twist Handle

 

Problem: I recently bought this joystick and when playing FSX with it for the first time today I noticed something: The throttle lever won't stabilize in the game. When it is at 0% ( IDLE ) or 100% ( FULL ) it is OK. But, If I move it to 50% for example, it won't stay, it'll oscilate between 49%,50%,51%, going up or down. It makes the throttle lever in the cockpit looks like shaking.

 

So, I tried calibrating it, didn't fix. And I tested it outside FSX, still the same problem.

 

* I tested it in this screen :

 

CvmGy.jpg

 

The red throttle line in the pic was shaking up and down just like in FSX.

 

Even at FSUIPC the issue persists.

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This can happen if the USB ports don't discharge all power, or some attached usb device sends interference.

To fix:

 

switch off the pc,

flick the large black on/off switch on the back of the PC to off.

push the power button on the front a few times. This drains all power from the pc.

You may hear a soft "pop" from the speaker when you do this.

 

disconnect all usb devices from the PC.

switch off these usb devices on the device itself. things like printer, speakers, etc.

plug in only your keyboard,

 

flick the large black switch on the back of the pc (on the PSU) back to on.

start the pc,

get into Windows,

plug in your devices into the USB's. One at a time, give Winddows time to recognise the device, then plug in the next.

Turn on a device after plugging it in, not before.

 

last of all your joystick.

 

Then try if it has stabilised.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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I tried those steps but unfortunately it didn't fix the problem. I was told it could my joystick's potentiometer. I'll test it in another computer just to make sure and then I'll send back to the store I bought so they can fix it or give me another one, since it came with the issue.

Thanks anyway !

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Increase the null zone by increments until the twitching stops.

 

Sent from my Venue 7 HSPA+ using Tapatalk

 

No changes man !

 

I tried the joystick in a laptop and it was working fine. Apparently it's my computer, I'll have to re-install Windows, I tried everything.. I think.

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Is your computer overclocked perhaps? If so, try removing the overclock.

 

I forgot a step in my last explanation, removing (disconnecting) the power cord.

Here it is again, corrected:

 

 

switch off the pc,

flick the large black on/off switch on the back of the PC to off.

push the power button on the front a few times. This drains all power from the pc.

You may hear a soft "pop" from the speaker when you do this.

Disconnect the power cord.

 

disconnect all usb devices from the PC.

switch off these usb devices on the device itself. things like printer, speakers, etc.

plug in only your keyboard,

 

Plug the power cord back in.

flick the large black switch on the back of the pc (on the PSU) back to on.

start the pc,

get into Windows,

plug in your devices into the USB's. One at a time, give Winddows time to recognise the device, then plug in the next.

Turn on a device after plugging it in, not before.

 

last of all your joystick.

 

Then do the calibration of the joystick again in FSX.

 

------

If it does not work, Try the exact same steps, but this time,

 

after disconnecting the power cord,

Reset the Bios to default settings by using the clear-CMOS jumper on the mainboard.

 

Do this only if you know how to set up the BIOS/CMOS menu again of course.

 

I had this issue a few times when I had an overclock set up. Clearing the CMOS fixed it. Then I made sure everything worked. Then I set up a new overclock.

 

----

Oops, almost forgot. After setting up the bios new, or after clearing the CMOS, Let WIndows update the "Experience Index". (is in "Control Panel".)

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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Is your computer overclocked perhaps? If so, try removing the overclock.

 

I forgot a step in my last explanation, removing (disconnecting) the power cord.

Here it is again, corrected:

 

 

switch off the pc,

flick the large black on/off switch on the back of the PC to off.

push the power button on the front a few times. This drains all power from the pc.

You may hear a soft "pop" from the speaker when you do this.

Disconnect the power cord.

 

disconnect all usb devices from the PC.

switch off these usb devices on the device itself. things like printer, speakers, etc.

plug in only your keyboard,

 

Plug the power cord back in.

flick the large black switch on the back of the pc (on the PSU) back to on.

start the pc,

get into Windows,

plug in your devices into the USB's. One at a time, give Winddows time to recognise the device, then plug in the next.

Turn on a device after plugging it in, not before.

 

last of all your joystick.

 

Then do the calibration of the joystick again in FSX.

 

------

If it does not work, Try the exact same steps, but this time,

 

after disconnecting the power cord,

Reset the Bios to default settings by using the clear-CMOS jumper on the mainboard.

 

Do this only if you know how to set up the BIOS/CMOS menu again of course.

 

I had this issue a few times when I had an overclock set up. Clearing the CMOS fixed it. Then I made sure everything worked. Then I set up a new overclock.

 

----

Oops, almost forgot. After setting up the bios new, or after clearing the CMOS, Let WIndows update the "Experience Index". (is in "Control Panel".)

 

Dude, reseted the bios, I even removed the motherboard battery. And still couldn't fix.

 

I tested in another computer today, just plugged and it worked perfect. Right now I booted Linux Mint and downloaded the joystick callibrator app so I could test it. Same f# problem. When I move any axis, especially throttle , it can't stay in a certain value. I dont know if I explained myself right but I could record a video so it would be easy to identify the problem. I really don't know what to do. How can someone be so unlucky.

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Sounds like you really did try everything!

Thorough!

Sorry if I sounded like I took you for a beginner on hardware. It's always hard to judge in a forum, so I try explaining so anyone would understand.

 

Weird issue if it does not happen in a different compu.

Have you tried the pc with only the joystick and keyboard connected? Sometimes a printer or other Usb device can interfere.

Even a dvd drive or internally connected Usb device (card reader) could interfere as well.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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It may be related to a problem/conflict with the USB host controller(s) and/or its software/driver(s), Use device manager to see if there are any issues (normally identifiable by a yellow triangle symbol). Check the properties of any displaying an error to see if any useful information is available to identify the problem.

 

Simply things you could try on any with an error symbol are:

 

a. Un-install the driver, restart the PC and let windows re-detect it and install a driver.

b. Check for a new driver

Regards

 

Brian

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It may be related to a problem/conflict with the USB host controller(s) and/or its software/driver(s), Use device manager to see if there are any issues (normally identifiable by a yellow triangle symbol). Check the properties of any displaying an error to see if any useful information is available to identify the problem.

 

Simply things you could try on any with an error symbol are:

 

a. Un-install the driver, restart the PC and let windows re-detect it and install a driver.

b. Check for a new driver

 

 

Well there's a yellow triangle, and apparently it is my motherboard because when I go to "Device and printer" it shows my motherboard model and a yellow triangle. I tried what you said, but didn't fix. I'll try getting a driver online and come back here to tell if it fixed.

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I would highly advise removing that Logitech software for the stick. Its old, buggy, and has not been updated in nearly a decade. And in point of fact, the Logitech software stops you calibrating it manually via windows.

 

I have the same stick and all it needs is the windows default drivers to run fine.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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Well there's a yellow triangle, and apparently it is my motherboard because when I go to "Device and printer" it shows my motherboard model and a yellow triangle. I tried what you said, but didn't fix. I'll try getting a driver online and come back here to tell if it fixed.

 

1.PNG

2.PNG

 

My bios is updated, downloaded all softwares from official website, but the yellow triangle is still there, check those images.

 

I would highly advise removing that Logitech software for the stick. Its old, buggy, and has not been updated in nearly a decade. And in point of fact, the Logitech software stops you calibrating it manually via windows.

 

I have the same stick and all it needs is the windows default drivers to run fine.

 

Eeh, didn't fix :(

 

Thanks for everyone that is helping me, I hope we can solve this..

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The method you have use to view Device manger is a 'limited' version which only displays add-on 'external' devices (such as printers) and only shows the 'main' device entries in the device properties list. In the properties view that you show did you scroll down to check all of the entries to see if any other entry had the symbol.

 

A better way to view device manger is to right click on the desktop Computer Icon and select Properties. In the resulting window select Device Manager from the list at the top left hand corner. This will open a window which displays both 'internal' and, when connected, 'external' devices. Any areas that have issues will display the error symbol and will be automatically expanded. You can right click on the appropriate entry to get the properties

 

I suggest you look again using the method I had outlined above.

Regards

 

Brian

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To add my two cents worth, the advice given by CptCaveman and longbreak754, among others here, is good advice. This is not a great stick from Logitech, the one lesser without force feedback is much better. I owned one and binned it two months later. The Logitech software is horrendous, and is the cause of all of the over sensitivity (have you seen the radical pitch up and down yet with maybe a few millimeters of joystick movement, that will still happen) and not easy to get it all removed, even after uninstalling the drivers.

 

There is a tool on the Logitech site to help completely eradicate any working remnants of the software, and then using a good registry cleaner, such as Piriform CCleaner free, or Macecraft's PowerTools payware, will also clear out the garbage left behind. For me this stick left me cold towards any Logitech sticks, great other peripherals but I'll never touch their controllers again. For cheap(er) Madcatz FLY 5, then as one can afford, Saitek, Thrustmaster, CH Products, and then the sky is the limit on custom kit.

Screwbottle

W10 Pro 1703 x64 / openSuSE LEAP 42.2, Core i7 4790K 4.5GHZ OC, Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming5 mobo, Gigabyte AMD R9 280X 3GB GPU, Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB DDR3 1.6GHZ mem, CoolerMaster G750M 750W PSU, Zalman CNPS10X Shark Fin CPU Cooler

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Screwbottle,

 

I actually have a Logitech Extreme 3d Pro and have no problems with it. I have owned it for about three years and its still OK, having lasted longer than a Saitek Cyborg F.L.Y 5 stick which failed after a little over 12 months of use. It does what I want and I am happy with it. I have not got, and indeed never had, the dedicate drivers installed and just use the basic Win drivers.

Regards

 

Brian

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The method you have use to view Device manger is a 'limited' version which only displays add-on 'external' devices (such as printers) and only shows the 'main' device entries in the device properties list. In the properties view that you show did you scroll down to check all of the entries to see if any other entry had the symbol.

 

A better way to view device manger is to right click on the desktop Computer Icon and select Properties. In the resulting window select Device Manager from the list at the top left hand corner. This will open a window which displays both 'internal' and, when connected, 'external' devices. Any areas that have issues will display the error symbol and will be automatically expanded. You can right click on the appropriate entry to get the properties

 

I suggest you look again using the method I had outlined above.

 

I managed to fix the yellow triangle problem. What I had to do is install

Intel® Smart Connect Technology.

 

I did what you told and now there isn't any alert on devices page. Still didn't fix.

Funny thing is I have a PS3 controller ( not original ) and it works just fine and no oscilations. But since I've tested the logitech joystick in another 2 computers, the problem for sure isn't with it.

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To add my two cents worth, the advice given by CptCaveman and longbreak754, among others here, is good advice. This is not a great stick from Logitech, the one lesser without force feedback is much better. I owned one and binned it two months later. The Logitech software is horrendous, and is the cause of all of the over sensitivity (have you seen the radical pitch up and down yet with maybe a few millimeters of joystick movement, that will still happen) and not easy to get it all removed, even after uninstalling the drivers.

 

There is a tool on the Logitech site to help completely eradicate any working remnants of the software, and then using a good registry cleaner, such as Piriform CCleaner free, or Macecraft's PowerTools payware, will also clear out the garbage left behind. For me this stick left me cold towards any Logitech sticks, great other peripherals but I'll never touch their controllers again. For cheap(er) Madcatz FLY 5, then as one can afford, Saitek, Thrustmaster, CH Products, and then the sky is the limit on custom kit.

 

I couldn't find the logitech software but Logitech driver isn't the problem for sure. I booted Linux Mint ( Didn't install anything ) and I still got the same issue.

 

I can't really buy another joystick right now so I'll have to find a solution to my problem if there is any.

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Ok, that was a good test, by trying it with another O/S, in this case Linux Mint, as it does not accept any Windows software, and instead uses open source drivers.

 

I would then have to say with 90% surety with these results you post, that you have a defective product. Are you able to return it (RMA return to manufacturer or purchase shop), is it still under any sort of warranty. I would include all of your findings of what you posted here, including it not working correctly under LM, and hopefully you can get a working replacement product.

 

Maybe another sure thing is, before doing any of the above, if you have any friends or acquaintances, or a shop near you, that have this same stick. You can then test it on your system with it, and at least help you fault find and eliminate a possible recent failure on your PC. Even USB ports, as robust as they are, can be damaged by a small amount of static from your hands as you remove a device plug.

 

Hopefully my above advice can help you get a working system back together.

 

Cheers

Andrew

Screwbottle

W10 Pro 1703 x64 / openSuSE LEAP 42.2, Core i7 4790K 4.5GHZ OC, Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming5 mobo, Gigabyte AMD R9 280X 3GB GPU, Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB DDR3 1.6GHZ mem, CoolerMaster G750M 750W PSU, Zalman CNPS10X Shark Fin CPU Cooler

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Screwbottle,

 

I actually have a Logitech Extreme 3d Pro and have no problems with it. I have owned it for about three years and its still OK, having lasted longer than a Saitek Cyborg F.L.Y 5 stick which failed after a little over 12 months of use. It does what I want and I am happy with it. I have not got, and indeed never had, the dedicate drivers installed and just use the basic Win drivers.

 

Hi Brian

 

Just shows how different how one brand differs from user to user. I have a FLY 5 used twice a month carted around in a wheelie bin, as I attend two virtual clubs I belong to, and still going strong after three + years. The only change is that a lot of that rubberized coating paint has worn off where my right hand grips it. I have had the same use and ongoing still for five years now, a Thrustmaster T-Flight Stick X. But my all time favourite for small space club use, as it is still working perfectly is the Microsoft Sidewinder Pro force feedback, the last one they made with the all red lights and plastic gimbal. This stick is 15 years old. And then another good stick I've seen used by two members in my clubs, robust, except for the flimsy looking throttle slider, is the Thrustmaster T160000M. My stay at home kits/pedals used on two systems, are top of the line Thrustmaster and Saitek Pro stuff.

 

I think we all get different usage and mileage out of our peripherals. I am very happy with all of those mentioned that I have, and hope this helps others here with very limiting budgets, to find good quality products to use with good lifespan.

Screwbottle

W10 Pro 1703 x64 / openSuSE LEAP 42.2, Core i7 4790K 4.5GHZ OC, Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming5 mobo, Gigabyte AMD R9 280X 3GB GPU, Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB DDR3 1.6GHZ mem, CoolerMaster G750M 750W PSU, Zalman CNPS10X Shark Fin CPU Cooler

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