FlightSim.Com: Kev's Cockpit

HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN COCKPIT

Parts 1 - 3

by Kev Saker

Introduction

This is the first of several modules on the building of my 757-200 flight cockpit. I would like to point out that these are not intended to be a complete set of plans on how you should build a simulator, they are simply a set of drawings and pages of text describing how I built my sim. If you choose to build a cockpit, you may well have ideas yourself on how certain systems should be built. That's fine, just share your knowledge with the flight sim community so everyone can enjoy this great hobby.

Flight Controls

This is an in detail description of how I built my set of flight controls, (yoke, control column, throttles, flaps, speed brake, stab trim and rudder pedals). I have chosen the flight controls first for two reasons. Firstly, they are the most important part of the entire simulator, and the rest of the sim should be built around the flight controls. Secondly many people may not wish to build the entire enclosed cockpit, so this description will enable them to build a much more realistic set of flight controls.

Part 1

Those people, who wish to use a bought yoke could skip this part. I think it is fair to say that the yoke is the hardest thing to create in the entire simulator. My yoke is based on the Boeing 757/767 aircraft, you may choose this aircraft or another, the decision is yours but the method of building remains the same.

The first thing to do is obtain lots of photos; research is the key to obtaining accuracy. I would start by drawing the yoke full size on a piece of card. When you are happy that it is the right shape and size cut it out. This is now a template for your yoke. Measure from the top of the left handle on the yoke around to the top of the right handle. This measurement tells you the length of copper pipe you require.

If you look at diagram 1 (part 1) you can see how to proceed. Use the template to mark on the pipe were to make the cuts for the handle bends. Use a plumber's pipe bending spring to give the handles a slight curve, bend the yoke to shape. It will be necessary to place a blob of solder on each cut to give it the strength it requires. Drill out the two holes on each handle. These are for the tubes which hold the autopilot cut out and the mike switch. Next cut out a hole in the centre of the yoke on top, this is the exit route for the cables. Next drill two holes as seen on the diagram, these are used later to attach the centre box.

Cut two small lengths of brass tube (obtainable at any good model shops) epoxy these in place on each handle. On the 757 the left tube is straight and the right tube is an up-angle.

OK, next we need to make a simple bracket to hold the stab trim switch. Cut a small length of alum strip and drill a hole for the 3 position switch (centre off). Secure the alum plate as seen on the diagram.

Do not fit any switches yet, however it is a good idea to run the three sets of cables through the yoke as seen on the diagram. Finally, using super glue and thin plasticard make a small box, open at the back. That keeps the filler paste away from the switch space.

Part 2

Now we come to the messy bit, we need to clad the entire yoke in car body filler paste. This is very dusty and should not be done indoors! Also use a mask if possible.

Start with the bottom of the yoke, mix the filler in small amounts, (it will dry very quickly) cover the entire lower part of the yoke. It will look awful to start with so don't worry.

Using very rough glass paper wrapped around a small block of wood start sanding down to shape, this takes time, then mix up some more filler and apply over the top. As you sand and fill you will start to get the shape and the finish you require. When you're happy with the lower part start a handle in the same way. If at any time you are not happy with the shape of the yoke just sand it down and re-fill.

Finally, apply filler paste around the plastic box for the trim switch. You can make up any shape you want.

Part 2A

When you think it's finished give it a coat of paint. This will show up lots of small craters and scratches. Mix up a small amount of filler and fill them out.

Reading back perhaps I give the impression that it takes a long time to build the yoke. In fact the whole thing can be built in three afternoons.

Part 3

Now we move on to the last part of building the yoke, the centre box. Start by cutting out two alum plates, one front and one back. The back plate needs to have a hole cut about 1-inch diameter for the centre pin. Make up the centre box as described on the diagram. The centre box is fixed on to the yoke using two nuts and bolts. All wires must be pushed through centre pin before fixing centre box in place.

Now fit the three switches to the yoke, (stab trim and two momentary type buttons for the mike and autopilot cut out). Do not glue these two switches in place. Try using a small amount of silicone to secure them as you may need to remove them for replacement at a later date.

Part 3A

Finally the map holder, which is optional, can be made up from plasticard, painted and the checklist data applied using "Letereset" dry transfers. If you make a mistake when you apply these you can remove them with a piece of sticky tape.

Continue to next part.

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